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I received so many wonderful recommendations and comments while trying to book my trip, not to mention, all the enjoyment I've had from other reports, I decided to post my report from the perspective of a woman traveling solo.
Jamaica - October, 2003
After reading over the notes I took in my vacation journal, I wasn’t going to post a report as traveling with the FOJ group, I imagined them all to read the same with the exception of some personal observances, however, a woman I admire greatly suggested I put it in the form of a woman traveling alone, so here goes. Hopefully, a single woman, mom, man or dad may find what I experienced helpful and perhaps even bring someone to the Friends of Jamaicans group and plan to attend next October.
My introduction to Negril was in 2002, but only for three days. That is all it took for me leave wanting more, but it brought forth a year of torture by reading all the boards and only made my “obsession to return” at times unbearable. I tried to book quite a few times throughout the year with my two children (one grown, one almost there), but their schedules would not mesh to make it happen. So, weeks before the FOJ bashment, I was on the board reading and it hit me – go alone!
Admittedly, my initial thoughts were to go with a group as I would certainly find comfort in sharing meals and some events with others. Little did I realize at the time, just how much work Wayne (the director of FOJ) had put into the events and provided a calendar for us that consisted of just the right amount of fun time and relaxing time. Additionally, I felt the charm of Jamaica back in 2002, but realized through this trip the need for organizations like FOJ and the good will that is provided through this venue is much grander than I ever thought it could be. I’m going to put it in these terms. I live in a country where I should have/could have been the charity, however, your tiny little dollar goes so far in Jamaica and the need is so much greater than anything you may have seen in our government assisted society (only my opinion, don’t crucify me).
So, on to the beginning. I have been a single woman AND a single parent for a very long time with all the challenges that come along with raising children on one measly salary. Additionally, I haven’t been feeling well and when the opportunity came, I decided to join the FOJ and go.
The second I put down the phone with the airlines, I wanted to call them back to say forget it, however, I did just book a non-refundable flight. In all my haste and apprehension, I just booked a hotel without much thought – I was price driven. I wanted to go for the entire two week period as I wanted a true vacation. Then I did what I always wanted to do – I posted on the board that I had just booked my trip and plan on joining the FOJ group. I wanted to get an idea of who might the members of this group be, albeit strangers to me. I e-mailed Wayne and some others several times and really liked the responses and the tone. I’m thinking I made a good choice and will have a good time.
For the next several weeks, I would get anxiety attacks and want to cancel. Am I crazy, going to a third world country, pretty much as a newbie as three days does not constitute a veteran? I thought about what I would do with my alone time, what would I do if I became frightened or inundated with higglers. I thought about eating meals alone, walking alone, taking a route taxi, but mostly, I worried about how my kids would simply exist without me. My eldest is 25 years old and has lived on her own, yet I have always been just a phone call away. My youngest is 17 years old and got her license and car only one day before I left. I had so many concerns, but I was determined to go for two main reasons. I am alone and if I want to travel, I must get used to going alone and the second, as I haven’t felt well lately (hopefully nothing serious), I wanted to just go as no one is promised tomorrow. A nice sideline to this too would be witnessing the fact that my children can function without their mother by their side.
My journey begins. Awake at 3:45 a.m. to catch the flight. It always seems odd to me to be in a public place at an ungodly hour. The people around me were all couples and families – that made me want to turn around and go back home. I realized I had no cell phone – how did we live without them? I could not call home so easily. What was I thinking, it was only 4:30 a.m. and I was seriously considering calling home?
The flights there were great – pretty empty and had room to move around and spread out. Finally my apprehensions were turning into excitement. I kept my watch on west coast time so I could easily know where the kids were when I was thinking about them. Arrived at dusk and it was myself and one couple from Italy in the JUTA. JUTA drove around the airport for around 20 minutes trying to “accommodate” the Italian couple and they did not speak much English so it was a bit funny. I actually needed the comedy at this point. I needed to relax and enjoy. The ride to Negril was quiet and in the dark. I was hungry.
Arrival at the hotel was scary for me. I felt I was the only one there and it was dark and I had no idea where to go for something to eat. I decided to fight my fear and walk down towards the beach. There was a live band at Roots, so I walked over there to see what I could see. I am not in Negril 5 minutes and I buy about $100 worth of stuff from the higglers. OK, this can’t go on, I have 14 days left. I ordered some jerk chicken from the bar, had two cocktails and went up to my room. I sat there quite proud of myself that I ventured out on my own, in the dark, even if it were only a couple yards.
Tomorrow, in the bright sun, I promised myself to venture out a bit further.
Well, in the daylight, my fears had pretty much vanished. It was bright, beautiful and it came to be my most favorite time, early morning watching the sun literally change the colors of the ocean. I had a coffee pot and brought some coffee from home (decaffeinated), so I was good to go for first hour.
I decided the first thing on my agenda was to find an internet café just to let the kids know I arrived safely. I took out my handy map to find Selina’s as I brought her some dog toys and bones and the cats some food, something little for the kids and mental note to self to not forget the coffee. I walked along and discovered Café Taino was closed, so I walked on to Selina’s. She happened to be under the weather that day so I missed meeting her in person. With coffee in hand, I walked back down the road and the internet café was open. I wrote a little message home and felt better. Next on my agenda was to submerse myself in the ocean. It was hot, real hot and I had forgotten how hot it was. I was so ready for the ocean. I stopped at the room and made some more coffee, put on my suit and headed toward the water like a thirsty animal in the desert. It was so very warm, much warmer than I remembered. I swam around with a grin on my face that I could not remove. I did not care who witnessed this, I could not stop smiling.
After awhile, I realized I was shaking a bit. I was wondering if I was shaking with pure delight or what. I then realized that I just drank two cups of coffee and I am a decaffeinated drinker. I changed and decided to walk back to Selinas (the only place I knew of to eat) as I heard wonderful things and was sure to have a good lunch. The problem was the caffeine took away my appetite, so I had two rum drinks to counter the caffeine effect and a salad and calalloo – strange combination I know. This caffeine at 7:00 a.m., then rum by 10:00 a.m. habit seemed to continue the entire trip
That worked and I went back to the hotel feeling a bit more normal. I decided to take a walk down the beach as the first item on the calendar for me was a reception at Idle Awhile where JaJa Rick was to show some of the artwork from his store. I needed to find out if it was walkable, so I ventured out again.
The beach and the places were so empty. That emptiness was surreal. The establishments for the most part had music going and staff just waiting. I had to hand it to them, keep the doors open and maybe someone would come. I had reached Idle Awhile and kept going to see what else I could see. Pretty much more of the same. Eventually, I turned around to shower and dress for the reception.
When I returned to the hotel I ran into another member of FOJ and her friend. Combined they have over 20 years of experiences on the island. We talked for awhile and as I listened, I thought how I lucky I was to be getting this kind of education of the island, certainly every tourist isn’t granted this insight. Even after all this experience, I found they too had a hard time describing why they loved this island and it’s people so. There are some things and places and emotions that the average adjective doesn’t properly describe.
We all walked down the beach to Idle Awhile and I was so pleasantly surprised to be greeted with hugs and “glad you’re here”. And I was concerned! There was a lot of laughter and I had a drink or two and some appetizers, but did not partake in the Ital food – what was that? – maybe another time I was thinking!
As the evening ended, I walked back to the hotel, by myself, in the dark and was thinking that I just met the most wonderful people, all brimming with different personalities with commonalities like their love for Jamaica and their love of life and laughter (and rum and Red Stripe too). I was also thinking how I should be a bit frightened walking alone, but I wasn’t, I was in a state of peace and calm; the water, the stars, the moon and oh, those tree frogs, my favorite moment of the day. Had some fried chicken and retired early. I wanted to be rested for our catamaran trip tomorrow.
The catamaran left at 10 am, so I tried to get to the internet café to write home about my first day and the incredible state of mind I was easing into, but no luck – did not open on time. I made myself a promise to pay special attention to detail today. I did not want a tree, flower or emotion to go unnoticed.
The catamaran trip was so much fun. Not to repeat or to bore as others have posted, but we sang and swam and snorkeled – lunch was fantastic and the company even better. I began with a very strong Ting and rum and we stopped along the way to cool off. What a rush of your senses to jump your incredibly hot body in that azure blue ocean and swim around. What a perfect day of exercise, food and good hearty laughter. Can I repeat what fun this group is?
After our cruise, we hung around Idle Awhile for a bit and I was introduced to a rasta that made me some spoons from coconuts. Actually, he made some for Yum Yum and I stole the idea as I found it perfect for someone back home.
Early evening, I decided to try to get into the internet café again. This time it wasn’t to contact home, as much as it was to tell them what a glorious day I just had and how wonderful everyone was and that their old mom hasn’t laughed so much in 20 years. I was giddy with the day. Well, it got dark in about 6 seconds. I was typing for only a few minutes and looked up and it was dark. OK, I got myself in this mess I thought. I’m alone in the dark on the road (somehow I felt safer on the beach). I finished up that sentence I was typing, paid for the services, bought some more rum and Ting and proceeded through a yard to the beach. It seemed the beach was brighter too.
My goal for the day was accomplished in spite of the seven or so rum and Tings. I noticed the trees, birds and flowers, although the gardening at Idle Awhile is so beautiful, it is easy to get absorbed. One of my favorite moments was standing in the gentle afternoon rain.
That evening, a group decided to go to Alfreds. I was game as I’ve heard so much about it. Normally I wouldn’t have gone out late, but I was still on west coast time, so I was refreshed enough to see what all the hoopla was about. I was glad I went, but it was one of those did it once for the experience things. I don’t enjoy crowds and loud music generally, but there was a vibe I just couldn’t describe or get a hold of. I walked back to the hotel around 1 a.m. on the beach, by myself. I’m feeling real comfortable being alone and walking alone at night now.
Today the calendar called for the Domino Run. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but what I did know was I did not want to go “bar-hopping” all by myself. I took up Yum Yum and Maintain on their offer to meet them at Idle Awhile and start off there. I also decided first up, that one bar would be a drink, but the next, just water. Between 10 am and 2 pm yesterday, I had around 8 very strong drinks in the hot sun. I was not sick or hung over, but I wanted to enjoy myself. The day was as I thought it would be – long and hot. I had visited so many places with the ocean just 10 steps away, yet I stayed on that bar stool in the shade. The fun things was chatting with the group and watching the people. Being that this was slow season and from what I understand, particularly slow, I felt we may have been the only business of the day for some. It was good to see all the places I have read about for the last year too.
So back at the hotel and I could not wait to get into that beautiful ocean. It was (or I was) so incredibly hot that day that the ocean did nothing to cool yourself off. I remember standing up to have the cool breeze give it a try and it worked. The little guys swimming near the shore bump into your leg if you stand in one position too long. This happened to me that day for the first time and I was startled. I’m not sure if they were sending you out of their territory or trying to eat you or groom you.
That night’s agenda called for a dinner at BarBBarn. Norm created a good menu for us and it was special. Cloth tablecloths and candles lit and wine, OMG, a wine list. I love my wine and was so very excited to see it. I had the most incredible fish filet and two glasses of wine – I was in heaven! Again, the meal was great, but the conversation and people were even better. Again, I thought, we’re his only business and it made me feel good to have been there during this time and spent our dollars when they needed it so. Thanks to Wayne too for spreading it around Negril. Many businesses got a piece of the FOJ’s business (or should I say pleasure).
The next day was Brunch at Selinas (or did I miss a day?). I was going to order the ackee and saltfish, but chickened out and got an omelette because I was really hungry and not sure if I would have liked it. The omelette was fantastic! With a very full belly, I walked back to the hotel with full intention of going for a swim, but……..the clouds rolled in. I spent the afternoon “pon the veranda” talking again with Swedish and her friend, Trelawny Small. Imagine this – interesting conversation, with the rain pouring down actually getting you soaked, yet not really caring. The roof of the porch kept the majority of the rain off of you, but the rains went east and west at times and soaked from the side.
After several hours of very informative conversation, I realized how I got myself in a bit of a jam as I procrastinated changing over my travelers checks and the cambio was closed on Sunday. Trelawny Small offered to take me to the ATM machine at the HiLo. I also discovered that HiLo sold Wine! Yeah, I’m so happy! To further my money situation however, the ATM only gave out $1,000 J and that was hard to break at most places – they just didn’t have the change.
I just had to make it through Sunday and Monday I could get smaller bills.
I think the next event scheduled was the jerk fest at 3 dives. I don’t know why Jamaicans have to have these massive sound systems. I had the eerie (not Irie) feeling that while I was up on this cliff I was in the middle of constant earth quakes – honestly, the ground was shaking from the bass. My night there just wasn’t a good one. As I mentioned, I’m not one for loud music and crowds and this event was both. Freefallin was staying next door at Xtabi and we all walked over to see his little hut on the cliffs. It was so very cute with an upstairs loft, but…..no a/c. I need to have a/c. However, it was cute as can be and after hearing about his love of snorkeling, I knew this was heaven to him. Walking back was a nightmare. Cars and people on this tight little road. To top off this evening, I somehow stood in an ant pile and had hundreds of bites – it hurt for a good long while, but did not leave any marks. So picture this. I’m standing with Freefallin and deciding how this works and where you go to order the jerk and it seems like it was sold by the pound and not be ¼ or ½ chickens. As there was a lot to absorb, we stood there for a long time. I started to swat at my ankles and even mentioned that I need to put on some bug spray. Within minutes, I was swatting everywhere and Freefallin was too. We began to run – where to, I don’t know. We found a little tiny puddle of water by the front gate and stood in this ankle deep mud hole. There were a couple of Jamaican children standing there just laughing at us sharing this mud puddle. The pain increased as the time went on too, those little buggers really pack a wallop! I caught a ride back with MoGlen and Theresa (still not sure how to get a route taxi) and ran for the ocean! It felt so good to soak my legs in that beautiful water. I had some dinner, watched a little TV and off to sleep.
The next day was the highlight of my trip – our trip to Benji’s yard.
I have to take a moment to plug Benji’s and if anyone is traveling to Negril – I cannot recommend a side trip better. I would also like to plug Soloman and Sienna or Trelawny Small to take you there. I guarantee you they will pack you full of stories of island life along the way.
Benji is a gentle man, fit as can be for 50 something. I think I have his story correct, that he worked for some hotels in MoBay for awhile, a long while, then bought this piece of paradise and it occurred to him to make it an attraction. My first thought was this; if this is Eden, no wonder Eve gave it up.
When we arrived, my senses were filled with the aroma of something so wonderful cooking on the outside whatever – grill, oven, stove. I quickly got sidetracked by the sound of the water and the beauty of his yard. He actually eats and drinks from his yard. There is everything growing on bushes, trees, in the ground and he was preparing us a meal from his resources. He guided us down a small hill to a sight only Hollywood could produce, yet it was all produced by one. The combination of trees, the rushing cold aqua grey water and the plants surrounding it was totally indescribable. One by one we ventured in to the water with Benji leading the way. This is also the day I had my first Red Stripe. So put your imagination in gear here. A very hot day, with sensory overload on the eyes and nose and add to that your first cold taste of Red Stripe.
As we sauntered into the unknown, a group of local kids came by and just stared. I felt alien. I smiled and waved and they kept staring. Two little girls came closer to the water’s edge and continued staring. My heart melted when they smiled and waved back.
At Benji’s suggestion, some of us headed up toward the beginning of the stream into his yard. It was equally as beautiful, yet much more peaceful and the surrounding foliage covered the area to where no sunshine came through.
Benji showed us the trees and what they produced and how he planted everything - I believe it was him that said you throw a seed in the ground in Jamaica and you get a tree – no fertilizers, no special soils, just throw it in the dirt.
We were advised that lunch was ready. I was going to have Ital food and it smelled so wonderful, I really didn’t care what it was. The plate was a minimal charge that consisted of rice and peas, calaloo, dumplings, breadfruit (I can’t remember what else without my notes). It tasted delicious. The local kids were around. We took some pictures and then took our plates and pulled up a rock and ate. This is when I noticed the kids going over to a little house about 50 feet away and sitting there. Now, I’m a mom and I thought, could they be hungry? Does Benji have anymore food?
At one point I looked over at Yum Yum and there was that mom to mom moment with no words spoken and she gave her plate to the kids. I followed her lead after tasting each and every thing on the plate and it was great! The kids ate it up, every grain of rice and they shared with each other. Others followed our lead. Our leftovers and our forks and they didn’t mind at all. With the biggest smile, they graciously accepted our offer. Now here is where I will probably get some negative comments, but please consider. Life in Jamaica is day to day, maybe even meal to meal sometimes (I’ve heard it from reliable sources, so don’t doubt it) for some. I’m not saying these kids would have gone without lunch, but they sure had one tasty meal thanks to Benji.
After they were energized, they tumbled and walked on their hands to just be kids and entertain us. I saw two boys playing with a log – trying to stay on it as it rolled down the hill. It made me feel wonderful actually, as that was my childhood. We had no $100 toys from ToysRUs. We made our own fun.
This was not a situation of despair and hopelessness. The older children, all of 8 or 9 years old, took care of the little ones – really took care of them and protected them, better than some parents I’ve run across in my life (LOL). Anyway, it was heartwarming to say the least and I wrote in my journal, if anyone ever asks me what is it about the people that interests you so much, I will tell them the story on how well behaved, well cared for, clean and beautiful children of Jamaica were on that day towards each other and in particular, the little ones. They cared for the ones that were not able to care for themselves.
Jamaica - October, 2003
After reading over the notes I took in my vacation journal, I wasn’t going to post a report as traveling with the FOJ group, I imagined them all to read the same with the exception of some personal observances, however, a woman I admire greatly suggested I put it in the form of a woman traveling alone, so here goes. Hopefully, a single woman, mom, man or dad may find what I experienced helpful and perhaps even bring someone to the Friends of Jamaicans group and plan to attend next October.
My introduction to Negril was in 2002, but only for three days. That is all it took for me leave wanting more, but it brought forth a year of torture by reading all the boards and only made my “obsession to return” at times unbearable. I tried to book quite a few times throughout the year with my two children (one grown, one almost there), but their schedules would not mesh to make it happen. So, weeks before the FOJ bashment, I was on the board reading and it hit me – go alone!
Admittedly, my initial thoughts were to go with a group as I would certainly find comfort in sharing meals and some events with others. Little did I realize at the time, just how much work Wayne (the director of FOJ) had put into the events and provided a calendar for us that consisted of just the right amount of fun time and relaxing time. Additionally, I felt the charm of Jamaica back in 2002, but realized through this trip the need for organizations like FOJ and the good will that is provided through this venue is much grander than I ever thought it could be. I’m going to put it in these terms. I live in a country where I should have/could have been the charity, however, your tiny little dollar goes so far in Jamaica and the need is so much greater than anything you may have seen in our government assisted society (only my opinion, don’t crucify me).
So, on to the beginning. I have been a single woman AND a single parent for a very long time with all the challenges that come along with raising children on one measly salary. Additionally, I haven’t been feeling well and when the opportunity came, I decided to join the FOJ and go.
The second I put down the phone with the airlines, I wanted to call them back to say forget it, however, I did just book a non-refundable flight. In all my haste and apprehension, I just booked a hotel without much thought – I was price driven. I wanted to go for the entire two week period as I wanted a true vacation. Then I did what I always wanted to do – I posted on the board that I had just booked my trip and plan on joining the FOJ group. I wanted to get an idea of who might the members of this group be, albeit strangers to me. I e-mailed Wayne and some others several times and really liked the responses and the tone. I’m thinking I made a good choice and will have a good time.
For the next several weeks, I would get anxiety attacks and want to cancel. Am I crazy, going to a third world country, pretty much as a newbie as three days does not constitute a veteran? I thought about what I would do with my alone time, what would I do if I became frightened or inundated with higglers. I thought about eating meals alone, walking alone, taking a route taxi, but mostly, I worried about how my kids would simply exist without me. My eldest is 25 years old and has lived on her own, yet I have always been just a phone call away. My youngest is 17 years old and got her license and car only one day before I left. I had so many concerns, but I was determined to go for two main reasons. I am alone and if I want to travel, I must get used to going alone and the second, as I haven’t felt well lately (hopefully nothing serious), I wanted to just go as no one is promised tomorrow. A nice sideline to this too would be witnessing the fact that my children can function without their mother by their side.
My journey begins. Awake at 3:45 a.m. to catch the flight. It always seems odd to me to be in a public place at an ungodly hour. The people around me were all couples and families – that made me want to turn around and go back home. I realized I had no cell phone – how did we live without them? I could not call home so easily. What was I thinking, it was only 4:30 a.m. and I was seriously considering calling home?
The flights there were great – pretty empty and had room to move around and spread out. Finally my apprehensions were turning into excitement. I kept my watch on west coast time so I could easily know where the kids were when I was thinking about them. Arrived at dusk and it was myself and one couple from Italy in the JUTA. JUTA drove around the airport for around 20 minutes trying to “accommodate” the Italian couple and they did not speak much English so it was a bit funny. I actually needed the comedy at this point. I needed to relax and enjoy. The ride to Negril was quiet and in the dark. I was hungry.
Arrival at the hotel was scary for me. I felt I was the only one there and it was dark and I had no idea where to go for something to eat. I decided to fight my fear and walk down towards the beach. There was a live band at Roots, so I walked over there to see what I could see. I am not in Negril 5 minutes and I buy about $100 worth of stuff from the higglers. OK, this can’t go on, I have 14 days left. I ordered some jerk chicken from the bar, had two cocktails and went up to my room. I sat there quite proud of myself that I ventured out on my own, in the dark, even if it were only a couple yards.
Tomorrow, in the bright sun, I promised myself to venture out a bit further.
Well, in the daylight, my fears had pretty much vanished. It was bright, beautiful and it came to be my most favorite time, early morning watching the sun literally change the colors of the ocean. I had a coffee pot and brought some coffee from home (decaffeinated), so I was good to go for first hour.
I decided the first thing on my agenda was to find an internet café just to let the kids know I arrived safely. I took out my handy map to find Selina’s as I brought her some dog toys and bones and the cats some food, something little for the kids and mental note to self to not forget the coffee. I walked along and discovered Café Taino was closed, so I walked on to Selina’s. She happened to be under the weather that day so I missed meeting her in person. With coffee in hand, I walked back down the road and the internet café was open. I wrote a little message home and felt better. Next on my agenda was to submerse myself in the ocean. It was hot, real hot and I had forgotten how hot it was. I was so ready for the ocean. I stopped at the room and made some more coffee, put on my suit and headed toward the water like a thirsty animal in the desert. It was so very warm, much warmer than I remembered. I swam around with a grin on my face that I could not remove. I did not care who witnessed this, I could not stop smiling.
After awhile, I realized I was shaking a bit. I was wondering if I was shaking with pure delight or what. I then realized that I just drank two cups of coffee and I am a decaffeinated drinker. I changed and decided to walk back to Selinas (the only place I knew of to eat) as I heard wonderful things and was sure to have a good lunch. The problem was the caffeine took away my appetite, so I had two rum drinks to counter the caffeine effect and a salad and calalloo – strange combination I know. This caffeine at 7:00 a.m., then rum by 10:00 a.m. habit seemed to continue the entire trip
That worked and I went back to the hotel feeling a bit more normal. I decided to take a walk down the beach as the first item on the calendar for me was a reception at Idle Awhile where JaJa Rick was to show some of the artwork from his store. I needed to find out if it was walkable, so I ventured out again.
The beach and the places were so empty. That emptiness was surreal. The establishments for the most part had music going and staff just waiting. I had to hand it to them, keep the doors open and maybe someone would come. I had reached Idle Awhile and kept going to see what else I could see. Pretty much more of the same. Eventually, I turned around to shower and dress for the reception.
When I returned to the hotel I ran into another member of FOJ and her friend. Combined they have over 20 years of experiences on the island. We talked for awhile and as I listened, I thought how I lucky I was to be getting this kind of education of the island, certainly every tourist isn’t granted this insight. Even after all this experience, I found they too had a hard time describing why they loved this island and it’s people so. There are some things and places and emotions that the average adjective doesn’t properly describe.
We all walked down the beach to Idle Awhile and I was so pleasantly surprised to be greeted with hugs and “glad you’re here”. And I was concerned! There was a lot of laughter and I had a drink or two and some appetizers, but did not partake in the Ital food – what was that? – maybe another time I was thinking!
As the evening ended, I walked back to the hotel, by myself, in the dark and was thinking that I just met the most wonderful people, all brimming with different personalities with commonalities like their love for Jamaica and their love of life and laughter (and rum and Red Stripe too). I was also thinking how I should be a bit frightened walking alone, but I wasn’t, I was in a state of peace and calm; the water, the stars, the moon and oh, those tree frogs, my favorite moment of the day. Had some fried chicken and retired early. I wanted to be rested for our catamaran trip tomorrow.
The catamaran left at 10 am, so I tried to get to the internet café to write home about my first day and the incredible state of mind I was easing into, but no luck – did not open on time. I made myself a promise to pay special attention to detail today. I did not want a tree, flower or emotion to go unnoticed.
The catamaran trip was so much fun. Not to repeat or to bore as others have posted, but we sang and swam and snorkeled – lunch was fantastic and the company even better. I began with a very strong Ting and rum and we stopped along the way to cool off. What a rush of your senses to jump your incredibly hot body in that azure blue ocean and swim around. What a perfect day of exercise, food and good hearty laughter. Can I repeat what fun this group is?
After our cruise, we hung around Idle Awhile for a bit and I was introduced to a rasta that made me some spoons from coconuts. Actually, he made some for Yum Yum and I stole the idea as I found it perfect for someone back home.
Early evening, I decided to try to get into the internet café again. This time it wasn’t to contact home, as much as it was to tell them what a glorious day I just had and how wonderful everyone was and that their old mom hasn’t laughed so much in 20 years. I was giddy with the day. Well, it got dark in about 6 seconds. I was typing for only a few minutes and looked up and it was dark. OK, I got myself in this mess I thought. I’m alone in the dark on the road (somehow I felt safer on the beach). I finished up that sentence I was typing, paid for the services, bought some more rum and Ting and proceeded through a yard to the beach. It seemed the beach was brighter too.
My goal for the day was accomplished in spite of the seven or so rum and Tings. I noticed the trees, birds and flowers, although the gardening at Idle Awhile is so beautiful, it is easy to get absorbed. One of my favorite moments was standing in the gentle afternoon rain.
That evening, a group decided to go to Alfreds. I was game as I’ve heard so much about it. Normally I wouldn’t have gone out late, but I was still on west coast time, so I was refreshed enough to see what all the hoopla was about. I was glad I went, but it was one of those did it once for the experience things. I don’t enjoy crowds and loud music generally, but there was a vibe I just couldn’t describe or get a hold of. I walked back to the hotel around 1 a.m. on the beach, by myself. I’m feeling real comfortable being alone and walking alone at night now.
Today the calendar called for the Domino Run. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but what I did know was I did not want to go “bar-hopping” all by myself. I took up Yum Yum and Maintain on their offer to meet them at Idle Awhile and start off there. I also decided first up, that one bar would be a drink, but the next, just water. Between 10 am and 2 pm yesterday, I had around 8 very strong drinks in the hot sun. I was not sick or hung over, but I wanted to enjoy myself. The day was as I thought it would be – long and hot. I had visited so many places with the ocean just 10 steps away, yet I stayed on that bar stool in the shade. The fun things was chatting with the group and watching the people. Being that this was slow season and from what I understand, particularly slow, I felt we may have been the only business of the day for some. It was good to see all the places I have read about for the last year too.
So back at the hotel and I could not wait to get into that beautiful ocean. It was (or I was) so incredibly hot that day that the ocean did nothing to cool yourself off. I remember standing up to have the cool breeze give it a try and it worked. The little guys swimming near the shore bump into your leg if you stand in one position too long. This happened to me that day for the first time and I was startled. I’m not sure if they were sending you out of their territory or trying to eat you or groom you.
That night’s agenda called for a dinner at BarBBarn. Norm created a good menu for us and it was special. Cloth tablecloths and candles lit and wine, OMG, a wine list. I love my wine and was so very excited to see it. I had the most incredible fish filet and two glasses of wine – I was in heaven! Again, the meal was great, but the conversation and people were even better. Again, I thought, we’re his only business and it made me feel good to have been there during this time and spent our dollars when they needed it so. Thanks to Wayne too for spreading it around Negril. Many businesses got a piece of the FOJ’s business (or should I say pleasure).
The next day was Brunch at Selinas (or did I miss a day?). I was going to order the ackee and saltfish, but chickened out and got an omelette because I was really hungry and not sure if I would have liked it. The omelette was fantastic! With a very full belly, I walked back to the hotel with full intention of going for a swim, but……..the clouds rolled in. I spent the afternoon “pon the veranda” talking again with Swedish and her friend, Trelawny Small. Imagine this – interesting conversation, with the rain pouring down actually getting you soaked, yet not really caring. The roof of the porch kept the majority of the rain off of you, but the rains went east and west at times and soaked from the side.
After several hours of very informative conversation, I realized how I got myself in a bit of a jam as I procrastinated changing over my travelers checks and the cambio was closed on Sunday. Trelawny Small offered to take me to the ATM machine at the HiLo. I also discovered that HiLo sold Wine! Yeah, I’m so happy! To further my money situation however, the ATM only gave out $1,000 J and that was hard to break at most places – they just didn’t have the change.
I just had to make it through Sunday and Monday I could get smaller bills.
I think the next event scheduled was the jerk fest at 3 dives. I don’t know why Jamaicans have to have these massive sound systems. I had the eerie (not Irie) feeling that while I was up on this cliff I was in the middle of constant earth quakes – honestly, the ground was shaking from the bass. My night there just wasn’t a good one. As I mentioned, I’m not one for loud music and crowds and this event was both. Freefallin was staying next door at Xtabi and we all walked over to see his little hut on the cliffs. It was so very cute with an upstairs loft, but…..no a/c. I need to have a/c. However, it was cute as can be and after hearing about his love of snorkeling, I knew this was heaven to him. Walking back was a nightmare. Cars and people on this tight little road. To top off this evening, I somehow stood in an ant pile and had hundreds of bites – it hurt for a good long while, but did not leave any marks. So picture this. I’m standing with Freefallin and deciding how this works and where you go to order the jerk and it seems like it was sold by the pound and not be ¼ or ½ chickens. As there was a lot to absorb, we stood there for a long time. I started to swat at my ankles and even mentioned that I need to put on some bug spray. Within minutes, I was swatting everywhere and Freefallin was too. We began to run – where to, I don’t know. We found a little tiny puddle of water by the front gate and stood in this ankle deep mud hole. There were a couple of Jamaican children standing there just laughing at us sharing this mud puddle. The pain increased as the time went on too, those little buggers really pack a wallop! I caught a ride back with MoGlen and Theresa (still not sure how to get a route taxi) and ran for the ocean! It felt so good to soak my legs in that beautiful water. I had some dinner, watched a little TV and off to sleep.
The next day was the highlight of my trip – our trip to Benji’s yard.
I have to take a moment to plug Benji’s and if anyone is traveling to Negril – I cannot recommend a side trip better. I would also like to plug Soloman and Sienna or Trelawny Small to take you there. I guarantee you they will pack you full of stories of island life along the way.
Benji is a gentle man, fit as can be for 50 something. I think I have his story correct, that he worked for some hotels in MoBay for awhile, a long while, then bought this piece of paradise and it occurred to him to make it an attraction. My first thought was this; if this is Eden, no wonder Eve gave it up.
When we arrived, my senses were filled with the aroma of something so wonderful cooking on the outside whatever – grill, oven, stove. I quickly got sidetracked by the sound of the water and the beauty of his yard. He actually eats and drinks from his yard. There is everything growing on bushes, trees, in the ground and he was preparing us a meal from his resources. He guided us down a small hill to a sight only Hollywood could produce, yet it was all produced by one. The combination of trees, the rushing cold aqua grey water and the plants surrounding it was totally indescribable. One by one we ventured in to the water with Benji leading the way. This is also the day I had my first Red Stripe. So put your imagination in gear here. A very hot day, with sensory overload on the eyes and nose and add to that your first cold taste of Red Stripe.
As we sauntered into the unknown, a group of local kids came by and just stared. I felt alien. I smiled and waved and they kept staring. Two little girls came closer to the water’s edge and continued staring. My heart melted when they smiled and waved back.
At Benji’s suggestion, some of us headed up toward the beginning of the stream into his yard. It was equally as beautiful, yet much more peaceful and the surrounding foliage covered the area to where no sunshine came through.
Benji showed us the trees and what they produced and how he planted everything - I believe it was him that said you throw a seed in the ground in Jamaica and you get a tree – no fertilizers, no special soils, just throw it in the dirt.
We were advised that lunch was ready. I was going to have Ital food and it smelled so wonderful, I really didn’t care what it was. The plate was a minimal charge that consisted of rice and peas, calaloo, dumplings, breadfruit (I can’t remember what else without my notes). It tasted delicious. The local kids were around. We took some pictures and then took our plates and pulled up a rock and ate. This is when I noticed the kids going over to a little house about 50 feet away and sitting there. Now, I’m a mom and I thought, could they be hungry? Does Benji have anymore food?
At one point I looked over at Yum Yum and there was that mom to mom moment with no words spoken and she gave her plate to the kids. I followed her lead after tasting each and every thing on the plate and it was great! The kids ate it up, every grain of rice and they shared with each other. Others followed our lead. Our leftovers and our forks and they didn’t mind at all. With the biggest smile, they graciously accepted our offer. Now here is where I will probably get some negative comments, but please consider. Life in Jamaica is day to day, maybe even meal to meal sometimes (I’ve heard it from reliable sources, so don’t doubt it) for some. I’m not saying these kids would have gone without lunch, but they sure had one tasty meal thanks to Benji.
After they were energized, they tumbled and walked on their hands to just be kids and entertain us. I saw two boys playing with a log – trying to stay on it as it rolled down the hill. It made me feel wonderful actually, as that was my childhood. We had no $100 toys from ToysRUs. We made our own fun.
This was not a situation of despair and hopelessness. The older children, all of 8 or 9 years old, took care of the little ones – really took care of them and protected them, better than some parents I’ve run across in my life (LOL). Anyway, it was heartwarming to say the least and I wrote in my journal, if anyone ever asks me what is it about the people that interests you so much, I will tell them the story on how well behaved, well cared for, clean and beautiful children of Jamaica were on that day towards each other and in particular, the little ones. They cared for the ones that were not able to care for themselves.
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