Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

[tingalaya]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Goodevening Rizla,
yep, i am reading too, just wonderfull !! How did u like the way down west end ? thats where i used to live, used to see jackie on her scooter going to town. ahhh miss it so, thanks lady [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
used to go to secret paradise and swim in their pool at nights.( fresh water ) my husband remembers when they put it in.. he was friends with the owners, the Hogg family. i believe ?
sorry about the loss of your friend, i have just lost a very dear nieghbor & friend today, her name was Queenie, she was 83...

[ohliz]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Is anyone reading this?

YES!!!

[lilly]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Originally posted by ohliz:
[qb] Is anyone reading this?

YES!!! [/qb]

ME TOO! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[AngieB]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

I'm reading too Rizla. It seems that my laptop will not allow me to log in...so I can't post any replies from home. Have to wait until I come to work. Just the same, I am reading and enjoying.

[Tiger Eye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

DAY 4

[It’s past my bedtime but I’m going to attempt this before today is lost in the night…]

My day started at 6:05 am, with a few false starts at midnight, 3 am, and 5:30 am. I always know when there is no going back to sleep and believe it or not, at 6:00 am I felt surprisingly rested. I even made it through the long day on only one cup of coffee. Ikey was the man in charge this morning and he gave me full rights to the kitchen to fry my eggs. My loose plan for the day was to get some shopping done and get in touch with an old friend in town, but beyond that, I figured I’d be staying around the yard.

Mikey asked me if I wanted to go fishing and I surprised myself when I said yes. I don’t feel comfortable on boats at all. I packed my bag and off we went with another American staying at Barry’s. We stopped to pick up a couple at Coco La Palm and that is when the bells went off in my head that this was not a friendly gesture but a tourist gig. I couldn’t help but worry about what this was going to cost me.

Disappointment #2 was the realization that the man we picked up was the Screamer from the other side of the bushes. For the past few nights he would visit “Patch” (named so for the random patches of hair on his back) and he has got to be THE loudest tourist I’ve encountered in all of my years. You can imagine my dismay when I figured out I’d be fishing with him at this early hour. His wife was quiet but I wondered about anyone who would wear lipstick to go fishing at 7 am, not to mention lip liner. I tried to give her the benefit of the doubt until she threw her finished cigarettes in the sea. At that point I had no use for the three of them.

I started feeling panicky and regretful that I agreed to this. Mikey set me up at the end of the boat, away from Patch, the Screamer, and Lips, by the motor (bow? stern?) with a fishing wire, weight, hook, and bait, but no pole. I didn’t like being so far from land or knowing we’d be out there for at least two hours, until I caught my first fish. It was an instant mood changer. I was able to see why people love fishing so much. It is extremely relaxing, but taking life is not; I wanted to throw them back. The Screamer had his face pressed up to the glass bottom of the boat, wondering why he wasn’t catching any. I ended up catching four fish, which consisted of wenchmon and butter. My most impressive catch of the morning was the one I mysteriously caught by the belly.

We headed back to shore once a long while passed without catching anything. They wanted to go snorkeling but I wanted to get other things done. The dreaded moment came when Mikey wanted to get paid. He wanted $30. and I explained that I naively thought he was inviting me along to fish and couldn’t afford that. He seemed ok the $10. and ONE LOVE rizwear shirt I gave him.

I spent the rest of the morning doing some hand wash. I managed to collect a lot in a few days. I didn’t bring as much clothes as I normally do so it’s a necessity as much as it is an enjoyable chore here.

I was tickled pink to see Officer today. I was crushed to learn he didn’t work here anymore. He seemed so much larger and taller than I remember. My heart was so full from seeing him and in that small kitchen I carelessly backed up into a hot cocoa bread pan and burned my back. Budda got me some fresh aloe for $100j and Bev put some ice on it. I joked around with Officer before he was off again.

I asked Shorty to go with me to Sav to shop but he said the sun was too strong for that. He put Lee on assignment, the newest member of the Barry’s crew. I almost said no because I didn’t know him but Shorty wouldn’t send me with someone he didn’t trust. We took a route taxi to the car park and another to downtown Sav. There we met up with his friend Bling. They took me to several stores to look for bathmats and plastic tablecloths. I wanted to make home improvements on my room.

The bathmats were too expensive and the tablecloths too big. We went to a pharmacy and the bath sets were very nice. The one on the top of the pile cost $800j but I picked two on the bottom that were nicer. I knew $800j was a lot but since the last place sold just the mat for this price, I figured getting a 3-piece set was the best I was going to do. Once we left the store, I looked at my credit card receipt - $2,499j. Once I realized that I paid $50us for two bath sets, we went back in. The sets I chose were more expensive than the one on top.

We waited around the store for at least a half an hour for the manager to come. Once he figured out how to do it, he gave me a full refund on my return. I felt foolish because it was my fault. I explained to Lee that the reason I wanted someone to bring me was to look after me, take me to less expensive stores, and do the math. From that point on, they made sure I didn’t do anything stupid. I guess they didn’t want to stand around waiting for a situation to be rectified again.

We took a route taxi down the road to a store called Bashco. Items were displayed on the wall and the same bath sets were available for $500j less. I wrote down the item number and went to a woman behind a cage-like wall. I ordered two sets in mint green because I thought it was best suited for the walls in my room. She sent me to another area to pay. I wasn’t sure where she was pointing to because there were no signs that said, “PAY HERE!” The areas to order and pick up were much better marked. I went to a line in the general direction of where she pointed. Bling came to check on me and said I was in the wrong area.

Bling took me to a tiled wall with merchandise on it. Boy, I tell ya’ I think he mad, ya know? There we stood staring at a wall. I looked down to about waist high and saw a hole to stick my arm in to give the money. It felt like a drug deal. An arm that I assume was female handed out my change and a receipt. I had to go to the next line to pick up my order. Saving a lot of money, I got two nice bath sets. One went in my room at Barry’s and the other for Jennifer, my housekeeper.

We moved on to a store across the street and I got plastic tablecloths for 100j each. I also bought three yards of the plastic flower print. We were all DONE, DONE, DONE with Sav. We walked in the HOT sun and I knew why Shorty didn’t want to come. Ras! I had one thing on my mind – WATER…to drink and bathe in.

I sat in the front seat of the route taxi back to the car park in Negril. I said goodbye to my shopping friends and got in a beach route car. A woman sat in the front and I alone in the back with my bags. The driver stood outside trying to get more people to fill up the car and I was fading so fast that I didn’t think I could wait much longer. I said to the driver, “I’ll give you 90j if you leave now.” He and the female passenger laughed and we left. Truth be known, I would have paid more.

Once I got back to the yard my old friend Leggy was there. He now lives in the States but happens to be visiting Jamaica at the same time as I am. I was 1 ½ hours late but considering how many hours he’s been late over the years we are still far from even. I left him on the verandah so I could shower the life of Sav off of me. We soon headed to check Sue at the new Easyrock Internet Café.

While it is smaller than her last location, it is intimate and cozy. I actually like it better. The verandah on the back has a great view of the long stretch of beach and there is a constant breeze to cool things off. Like the Half House, it is soon becoming a work of art. I checked my email and made a quick post. The Internet usually draws me in more but this trip I can’t be bothered. I got many overly concerned emails from home since they’re used to my daily check-ins.

Sue shares the property with the Blue Water Ice Cream Parlor, which is great for getting ice cream or gelato while you check your email. I had to pass on that since I don’t eat sugar. We were entertained by the owner of the ice cream shop, Randy. He is American and I was amused by his homeboy ways and storytelling. I wouldn’t say he seems out of place but besides the recent influx of hip hop culture, specifically music, clothing, and some slang, these two worlds don’t usually collide for me in Jamaica. Upon meeting Randy, I felt like I knew him instantly.

Leggy and I joined Sue on the back verandah for a breezy game of dominoes. We didn’t keep score because we were all distracted for different reasons. I blame the one Red Stripe I had that made me drunk. I hadn’t eaten since before Sav; I really shouldn’t drink (sugar); and I’m a light weight. I couldn’t believe how giddy I felt. I knew I had to leave and eat before it was too late so we headed to Selina’s.

We ordered escovitch snapper and it was so good that it passed “the Leggy test.” He is extremely critical of food and ONLY eats fresh, good Jamaican food. He has lost weight since living in the States because if it isn’t quality home cooked Jamaican food, he will not eat. I was particularly impressed with the salad, equipped with real lettuce, corn, an assortment of olives, and tasty Dijon mustard dressing. There is just so much raw cabbage the system can take.

I would have stayed longer but Little Miss Prepared forgot bug spray! That’s a “just in case” essential. I wrapped my legs in my sarong and the bug coil under the table helped but I didn’t want to fight them anymore. I attempted to post on the board but couldn’t remember how to spell a lot of words. The day was a sensory overload and I knew it was well time to call it a day.

Leggy and I sat on my verandah back at my room, quietly lit my candle light, as we listened to music and talked about the good and bad times our friendship has endured over the last 10+ years. We talked about people that I knew back 15 trips ago. In true Trevor T fashion, he also stopped by to briefly join in on the “where are they now?” chat before moving on. The States haven’t changed Leggy that much; just his appetite for spliffs and beer is noticeably smaller. I enjoyed our time together but it was time for him to go back to Logwood so I could have some alone time.

My day lasted past my bedtime in part because my neighbor’s rap music kept me up and also because I was WIRED from exhaustion. My head was full of yard drama that happens in Jamaica and stays in Jamaica. I wondered if the next day would lessen its intensity, as the night always makes things feel worse than they are. Knowing this, I shrugged as much of it off as I could, reminding myself that this too shall pass…

TOMORROW: singing Gladys Knight songs with Barry in the early morning, the little cottage by the sea

[raswalleye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

All hail the return of Rizla, Queen of the trip report!

Your writing, like your art, is honest, and gracefull!

thanks & blessings...

Ed

[Nanook]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Nice story Rizla, I was looking forward to more, and now I am again! Thanks...

[Bink - the Only]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Rizla, i am reading cause i love Barry's. very sad to know that Officer does not work there anymore. he was a rock to me. love him much.

i glad to know that shorty is still there. he and i never hit it off like you and he do, but i believe he is good people.

keep writing, cause it is good stuff.

just promise me you will not tell Dr. Dudd that there are mosquitos in negril! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Tiger Eye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

DAY 5

[11 am] I was up at 6:00 am, regardless of the fact that I went to bed later. I thought that I had a chance of it but no such luck. Barry and I had the yard to ourselves for several quiet hours. He has become my tough love counselor here and while he has on occasion hit the nail on the head, he had just as often been wrong about why I do the things I do or what I want.

After a serious chat session, he began to quote a song by Gladys Knight that I know so well that I finished the line of the song for him: “Baby there’s no easy way to hear the words ‘I’m sorry I don’t love you.’” He went and put it on and there we sat singing this very sad song. He just had to play it twice. When anyone came into the yard and tried to interrupt, he’d say, “Dis a serious chune here.” And we kept on singing along.

[8:30 pm] I just got back to my yard after a day of hiding in the West End. I went to take care of my emails and have my Jesse Powell CD burned at Easyrock. It’s also always good to see Sue.

I spent the remainder of the day at a cottage by the sea. It was perfectly quiet out there, without a hint of the beach life. There were very few people, if at times any, and a view of the sea that seemed more beautiful without distractions. I felt a million miles from the beach and a million more from home. These are the moments that I concentrate intently on, trying to absorb every part of it so that I can use it to relax at home. I put Sade’s Lovers Rock CD on and it will forever remind me of this day.

The minutes crept into sunset and I watched it on a wall of a closed restaurant. It took me a few minutes to realize it was previously Rootz N Rhythms, the restaurant I ate at with Shorty and Talla 1 ½ years ago. I think when it reopens it will be called That’s Amore.

Once the sun set, I ate stew fish and vegetables at Chicken Lavish for dinner. It was good but a little tough. I ate half and packed the rest to go. After dinner, I decided to go back down to Barry’s instead of the cottage by the sea. From the looks of the yard, I didn’t miss much, but I did miss it.

I feel like I’ve been doing a lot since I’ve gotten here and needed to get away from even me. I sat on the verandah of this cottage by the sea and felt so overwhelmingly blessed. Everything stopped, including my life and my mind. I smelled the yard life burning and I longed to paint the walls of the cottage with the love and passion I feel for this island. I could feel my heartbeat, as well as the fears that plagued me for months and years melt away as I watched them blow away along the cliff’s breeze. For the first time since arriving in Jamaica, I was “away.” I told myself, “This is going to hurt next week.”

I took a shower and lit a few candles to write on the verandah. I don’t know what time it is but I don’t feel nearly as tired as I usually do. It was a peacefully beautiful and memorable day.

[Tiger Eye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Have a great weekend ... Day 6 resumes on Monday.

[dr. bones]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Oh poo. I have to wait the whole weekend for another installment? Sounds like you had a wonderful, spiritually renewing trip. Can't wait to hear more.

[stargirl911]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

((Rizla)) anxiously awaiting your next installment [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

[queenb]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

Ok, the weekend is over...weh di tory? [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

[Tiger Eye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

S [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] N ~ C [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] ME

Sorry for the delay...had a busy weekend.

[Tiger Eye]

Re: Trip Journal: April 19-26, 2003

I apologize for the delay...

DAY 6

I am sitting on the back verandah at Easy Rock Internet Café waiting for Sue to come back. I’m keeping her recently fixed ‘fridge company. I’ve ordered my second breakfast from Ragamuffin across the street. I’m having escovitch fish will callaloo. I order fish when possible because chicken is more accessible and after a while I feel like I’m going to grow feathers.

I was up most of the night because of barking dogs, quarrelling cats, my neighbor’s alarm, and a gathering of laughing men. At midnight I heard the “BEEP!BEEP!BEEP!” of my neighbor’s alarm. I tried to tune it out but after a half an hour I couldn’t take it anymore. I went to the yard to see if I could get someone to knock on their door because I didn’t have the nerve. Budda knocked, even POUNDED LOUDLY, on the door for several minutes. I was starting to believe they were dead. Budda got the master key and wanted me to come with him so I could be witness to his shutting the alarm and not taking anything. Still convinced they were in there, I was scared. Imagine waking up to Budda and me tiptoeing in your room. Lawd have mercy.

Luckily Budda was right; they were out. I suppose since they weren’t around to disrupt my beauty sleep with rap music, they’d let me fall asleep believing THIS could be the one night I’d get through without interruption…then at midnight, BAM! Rise and shine!

Budda managed to figure out how to shut the damn thing off. I thanked him and went back to try again. It became like a carton when the voices invaded my room ‘round 3 am. And when it wasn’t an alarm clock or people, it was dogs and cats. I gave up at 5:30 am and joined Barry for a chat session by 5:50. It was like every other morning so far…Shorty swept, I wiped down the tables and cooked my eggs, and Barry, whom because of his “cheery” demeanor in the morning I call “Sunshine” (or Uncle Grumpy), was typically Barry. He couldn’t wait to settle in and have a chat session. I made him laugh with delight with my recent escapades and he didn’t offer his usual advice or lectures. I guess because I seemed happy.

After a short breakfast, I packed my bag and headed back to the little cottage by the sea by 7 am. I knew I could go there for peace and quiet. I wouldn’t be able to sleep but I just wanted to relax and trick my body into thinking I was catching up on rest. After a few hours I knew I’d need to eat again so I made the trek to Easy Rock, where I still sit. Sue must have gone to Sav to buy paint for the new shop.

The sea is softly breaking on the rocky shoreline that Easy Rock’s verandah sits on. I can see the beach line from here and I feel conflicted between missing it and relieved to have the break. I know that no matter what, something always pulls me back. But for now I know that this is where I need to be. The yard drama must have a new name by now but I’ll give some more time for the dust to settle before I return. I’m planning to read GIFT FROM THE SEA by Anne Morrow Lindbergh. It was written by the sea and it’s recommended that it by read by it. I can think of no better place. [I ended up leaving this book at Easy Rock for other women to read there. It is a beautifully written metaphor for love, happiness, solitude and contentment.]

After a while I retreated back to the little cottage by the sea. I helped build screens for the windows. The day moved slowly but being it is my second to last full day, I could feel the difference in my breath – it wasn’t as effortless. I began to inhale and exhale heavier, with great a weight on my chest, specifically my heart.

I bought a piece of fried fish to eat on the quiet verandah, not far from the cliff’s edge. The morning turned into the afternoon before I knew it or could stop it. I made my way back to Barry’s and there was a noticeable difference between the two worlds. As soon as I stepped out of a vintage Mercedes driven by a Rasta, the men interested in talking to me for a minute started up again. Even the music battle was louder. I just smiled and felt glad to be home. Knowing time was running out, I headed over to Time Square. I wanted to get Shorty a watch because he doesn’t have one. I found a sports watch with a Jamaican flag on it.

I did some late afternoon hand wash since the sun was still strong enough to dry it and too strong for me to be out in it. Once the wash found their spots on the clothes line on my verandah, I set up a lounge chair on the beach to read and watch the sun set, but ended up doing more of the latter than the former. After a swim, I just looked out and around in a dream-like state of mind…loving Jamdung for what she has given me over the years and crossing over that fine line of hating how she breaks my heart again and again. It was a beautiful sunset.

I went back to my room to shower and pack a bag. I was off to the West End to stop in on Sue. I checked my email and sat on the back verandah. Sue made me a carafe of Blue Mountain coffee for the morning and I found my way to the little cottage by the sea in the dark. I dropped my bags and immediately went to the hammock to watch the stars, listen to the sea, and sway to the sweet sounds of tree frogs. Most times that I’m at my hideaway it feels like a dream. Acknowledging that I could get used to this, all the while knowing I’d soon have to get used to NOT having it.

After a while I went in and had my first peaceful night sleep for the week. I slept without distractions from dogs, cats, people, music, and alarm clocks. It was just the Jamaican night and sea.