3-in-one Jamaica trip report

[mountaingal]

early evening i went back to the roadside restaurant for fish dinner. uh oh - the lion fish was done. the cook told me i should have reserved one from lunchtime.

all he had left was some brown stew fish . okay, hit me up. btw, him have some fresh beet juice too, healthy stuff. alright, mi tek one yes.

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gawd it was good again, not too salty, and the seasoned rice was perfection when the owner's daughter came to clear my plate and asked me how it was, i couldnt even bother with patwa. "very good meal" i declared. i heard her repeat it to to the cook. i think he was pleased because he came out to chat. i asked him how he prepared the rice, and he said coconut was his secret ingredient. he strives to cook healthy, and i told him that was good.

he posed for a picture. his name is Junior. really nice guy.
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my last full in meal in Oracabessa was as enjoyable as my first, and my discontent at the mediocre meals in between disappeared. all was right in my world.

when i got back to the b&b, i recommended the restaurant to the Canadian couple.

[mountaingal]

went downstairs to the cafe that night, and the lumberjack was there with another local woman who he had told me was an artist. however, she demurred when i asked her about it.

dang it, does no one want to own up to being an artist in this town??? \o/ she's actually more willing to share that she's a dj that goes by the moniker Honey Jam.

Lumberjack apologized for not taking me to Firefly as promised that morning, and offered to take me the next day. I told him don't worry about it, i'm leaving the next day, and i'll go to Firefly next time I'm in Oracabessa.

after he and Honey Jam left, the Canadian couple came down. they brought their own whisky and "smoke". we chatted for a while. the husband turns out to be really talented in the instrument he plays, has even taught in europe. his wife was very proud of him, and so was i cause is a biracial guy. we talked a bit about black community issues. i encouraged his wife to check out a Jamaican popular artist who's also classically trained in the same instrument she plays.

after a while i left them to themselves and went up to bed.

[mountaingal]

i went to my room and finished packing, laid out my travel clothes for the next morning, cuz i wanted to leave as early as possible.

i was restless, though. maybe a bit anxious about the impending travel. i took decided to take a turn around the top floor.

when i got to the games room, i saw the Canadian wife drawing in a square on a large grid hanging on the wall. apparently guests are encouraged to leave a pictorial memory on this grid. i waited till she was finished, then drew a picture of my camera, my trusted companion on my Jamaica journey.

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[mountaingal]

slept fitfully - there was music playing in the distance, and a lot of lightning flashes to interrupt my slumber. got up and turned on my camera, caught some night sounds and night lightning.

the next morning i got up around 7 am. got dressed. Nikola greeted me, she seemed surprised i wanted to leave so early. she brought me my last coffee.
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goodbye Rosie. maybe next time we can get to know each other better.
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Nikola took my suitcase to the gate and waited with me for a route taxi, most of which passed us already full, having loaded up in Oracabessa.

after a while, i saw the lumberjack and K making their way down the street. they were coming to say bye. i was touched.

lumberjack told me he'd be coming back in the new year cuz he liked Oracabessa. he suggested i get in touch with Nikola to see when he'd be there, since i said i might come back in the new year too. i said for sure, would love to have a reunion.

soon enough, an empty taxi pulled up (praise god, it meant i could get in the front seat). K put my suitcase in the trunk.

then it was hugs all round - a really tight hug from Nikola - and i was on my way to MoBay.

[mountaingal]

Review of B&B Oracabessa

I really liked it there. The rooms are neat and nicely decorated, and that upstairs verandah is truly a treasure. you never really get full sun there, so any time of day or night it's a pleasure to hang out there - whether on the couch or hammock. Nikola is so low key yet attentive when needed, and is willing to accompany guests to the local beaches and other local attractions such as the turtle hatch. Shanique is pleasant, though her hand is (to me), a little heavy on the salt. As a guest you feel taken care of. The downstairs cafe/bar is small, which works for intimate gatherings of friends to have a beer and chat without disturbing guests upstairs.

The downside of the place is primarily the yard, which gives it a bit of a run-down look. Nikola tries her best to plant decorative flowers, but is a bit haphazard in her selections and placement. She knows she needs help, but cannot afford it right now. A decent landscaping would do wonders, though. Also, there was no daily linen service, and after Shanique goes home, Nikola struggles sometimes with dinner service. But those were small things to me, and i cut Nikola some slack since it seemed she was unexpectedly put in the position of carrying on the business without the aid of her husband.

B&B Oracabessa beats out K and his lady's place by having the cafe. and it beats out the artist woman's place by having separate quarters for guests and owner.

The rate is really cheap - about $37US per night. No AC, and no TV. If you can live with that, it's a real steal. It's a perfect place for people who maybe are into camping. The meals are cheap too, but I'd recommend the occasional trip to the shop down the street.


Review of Oracabessa

Charming place, a haven for artistic types and environmentalists. Feels very safe. The local residents are pleasant and easy to talk to. Fantastically convenient transit. Next time i go, though, I might rent a car so i have a little more freedom to explore.

Hope some of this charm remains in face of the big development that Usain and others have on horizon.
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END OF SECOND LEG.

[remo]

thanks, remo. you're a santa cruz man as well, don't?

Grandmother from Leeds,Father from Monroe I tell everybody I am from St Bess

[Peasie]

Hope some of this charm remains in face of the big development that Usain and others have on horizon.
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Pure niceness. Thank you, my sister.

[Peasie]

END OF SECOND LEG.

di tappick seh 3-in-1. chrrps.

[QK13]

O - DO NOT CHANGE YOUR MONEY IN THE AIRPORT! They gave $93J to one US. While outside you could get $110J. So tiefing Some Spanish outfit owns the airport cambio, and it is right outside the customs area, so they just grab people who are on their way out, my mother included.

All noh mi nevah change money at di hairport!! Cambio sometime, but moasly go own pon di street a Black Riva.

[QK13]

She had a lot of trials and tribulations, and endured a lot of susu about choosing to leave her husband and go "a road", but she never gave a crap. weeks before she died she was still fussing about getting her manicure.

we all miss her terribly, and her absence is being felt by the church (where she was the verger), and in the community.

She lived how she wanted to live.
Gwaan chrue deh Grand Auntie!

[blackberryrain]

Lovely trip report MG. Great pics, too.

[Blackstar*]

mi neva like this wall hanging - the juxtaposition of the crown and a bob marley saying felt wrong.
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Is Haile Selassi crown. LOL

[Blackstar*]

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two rooms side by side, each with ensuite bathroom, tons of closet space and a view overlooking what i think is part of boscobel harbour. designed and decorated by K's lady, who's a realtor. very clean lines almost Scandinavian esthetic that is at the opposite end of the spectrum from Nikola's found object bohemianism.

Stylish

the Englishman is a retired publisher, and when he found out i was from Canada, told me tales of running afoul of Quebec's language laws with one of his publications. he and K chatted, and i heard the Englishman talk about some mutual acquaintance living in town with a "mampi coolie gal with white liver".

i don't know if it was the sunhot, but all of a sudden i felt like i was on the steps of some weird world. no lie, The Pirate's Daughter novel by MCT flashed into my mind. i was happy to take my leave and head back to my room at NIkola's where things were relatively ordinary.

LOL! You're right to get away - just follow your instinct if something nuh feel right.

Shanique's friend was a little further along, swimming in the water with her two grand children. Told me their names and i promptly forgot them, as i've been doing through this whole trip with cousins' kids. i only remembered the names of adults and dogs.

the boy
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the girl
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Lovely kids, happy and enjoying being at the beach even though they were the only ones in the water. wished they were my grandkids.

Lovely children.

by the time i reached the group, Mel had just finished having an intense conversation with Nikola. i saw her shake her head and turn away. drat. i really wanted to get at the root of their beef.

Ah suh yuh luv fass inna peeple business?

the lumberjack started telling me again how grateful he was that K taught him how to fell a royal palm. you insert the machete at the root, chop it and the tree falls over. something about that nagged at me from the first i heard it.

i turned to K - "that's how you fell a royal palm? that tree so big and tall..."

K replied, sotto voce, "a banana tree him a talk."

aye sah.

Seerius ting doah, dats why sometime when white peeple ah talk mi nuh beleeve dem.

di tappick seh 3-in-1. chrrps.

Indeed.

[R00TS1]

So sorry about your family's loss Mountaingal. I'm sure Auntie would have been pleased with your tour.

I had a hard time resigning up here in order to see your photos.
You know I love the Oracabessa area. We have passed that B&B a hundred times and always wondered about it and its baked goods. Thanks for sharing

This was the lobby of Golden Seas back in the early 90's. Spent some real good times there.



I was told last winter that Mr Bolt gave permission for the community to take anything usable off of the property. real nice gesture. I wish him much success.

This may be of interest to you also

http://www.oracabessafishsanctuary.org/index.html

I have seen the coral plantings and had taken excellent underwater photos that
were compromised by a fool. still aggravated as you can see

Mel has done some fine things for the turtle pop. He was a boardie here but got his feeling hurt I guess. don't remember his handle.

The beach you spoke of near rio Nuevo is called Sugar Pot beach. We first found it last winter and is now a new favorite. Try and check it out.

Thanks a lot for sharing

[applepie]

Love your report! Enjoyed your pictures and writing!