Japan and Bali

[MsExced]

Re: Japan and Bali

Hi lapassionata

loving your report and pictures so far

love your sense of adventure

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

Day 3: Meiji Jingu, Harajuku, Omote-Sando

I took the train with M on her way to work, so that she could give me some more tutoring on Tokyo's metro. I couldn't sleep, so I got up before dawn to plan my day. Since I had essentially a week to do Tokyo, I decided to follow the advice of my bff Lonely Planet, and tackle a new district/neigbourhood of Tokyo each day. Tentatively, I was also planning a visit to Hakone or even Nikko, which were day trip distances from Tokyo via the shinkansen.

I think M was really worried when after several attempts to explain, I remained confused about which trains to take to get back in. Finally she said: call me if you get lost. The morning commute was an experience. One of the many OMG moments of this trip: we WERE literally packed in like sardines. I DID actually have a gentleman pressed back all the way on my chest. There are racks above the seats for briefcases, bookbags etc. Everyone looks everywhere but at each other. The best way to earn dirty looks is to take up more space than your body's diameter. You sacrifice personal space to efficiency. Pushing to get out or in is not impolite, it is a survival strategy. Anyway, I finally arrived at my first stop, which was Meiji-jingumae, where I was planning to visit the Meiji-jingu (the meiji shrine) with its quiet and beautiful inner garden.

I was pretty early, it was only 8 am, so I decided to take a seat on a sidewalk bench and watch rushhour Tokyo go by. Highly entertaining. No one else dresses like a Tokyo-ite, the most self-consciously fashionable woman in the world. I don't mean self-conscious in the sense that she is awkward or embarassed by attention; I mean that she is ever conscious of the effect she is achieving with her personal attire, and is in no way trying to pretend that her striking appearance has been achieved effortlessly. For my part, I was impressed and a little intimidated by these pint-sized princesses; I don't think I could wear high heels, thigh high socks and booty-shorts with that particular crisp white shirt and striped jacket, but hey girl, you pull it off SO well. I really wanted to take pics of the fashion show, but I didn't feel it was appropriate; I know I would be peeezed if random people tried to take my pic in the streets of Toronto so they could go home and exclaim about my "twisted locks of hair that looked like ropes, or a mop, Harold!."

After I chilled for a while, I continued walking up to the shrine gates. There were some school kids around, some business-men looking types, some other tourists, but the place was almost empty by Tokyo standards. When we passed through the torii, we literally stepped out of a hectic polluted city into a peaceful and serenly green haven. Meiji-jingu is a Shinto shrine, so there is alot of emphasis on nature and the spirits that inhabit the natural world. According to LP, it was built in memory of Empreror Meiji and his Empress, but was bombed in WWII and rebuilt in 1958. For all that it is a (authentically reconstructed) copy of the original, it is really beautiful.

<span style="font-weight: bold"> </span> <span style="font-size: 14pt">Approaching Meiji-jingu</span>




<span style="font-weight: bold"> </span> <span style="font-size: 14pt">The torii (shrine gate)</span>




<span style="font-size: 14pt">Barrels of sake dedicated to the shrine. </span>






<span style="font-size: 14pt">The inner courtyard with the shrine building up ahead. Outside the right entrance was a place to purify yourself with ritual handwashing. No pictures were allowed of the inner shrine itself, but you could make an offering and say a prayer. Which I did, because as J. Carey wrote, one should always pay one's respects to the gods of a place.[size]




[size:14pt]The many prayer requests from visitors to the shrine over the years. Yeah, I made one too.</span>

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

There was a couple doing the traditional thing for their wedding: visiting a Shinto shrine and being blessed by the priests, full traditional gear for the bride and family. This attracted the attention of Japanese as well as non Japanese visitors. M-chan said going that route is INCREDIBLY expensive.













<span style="font-size: 14pt">The Shrine's inner garden is very very peaceful and beautiful. Koi pond, shaded walks, iris garden, antique teahouse, ancient well etc etc.</span>









<span style="font-size: 14pt">Standing in line to pay respects at the Kiyomaso-Ido well, which for all the buildup, is a little hole in the ground from which crystal clear water gushes up in steady stream. You need a ticket to see it, and there is even a security guard, but I don't know if he was there for crowd control or to safeguard the sanctity of the spot. I anointed myself and moved on.</span>

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

After the spiritual, comes the superficial. I headed to Harajuku on foot. I stopped at a Family Mart for iced capp and pastries for lunch then commenced strolling this most famous of Tokyo streets. Sadly, the Harajuku girls were all at school. It was a Monday morning, so Harajuku was actually very quiet with not that much foot traffic. The stores were all themed, for example heavymetal and punk , hiphop, secondhand eclectic, seventies flowerchild etc. Very very trendy stuff. And NONE of it could fit me. (Thank God, I think now.)

There were quite a few african guys in Harajuku (&quot;Hey sista, hey sista!&quot and apparently they own the popular hiphop clothing stores that populate Harajuku. Good on them for trying to make it work. I mean, the japanese are self-admittedly pretty xenophobic. I planned to visit again on the weekend, when the teenagers would be out and promenading, but those plans fell through, so I never did get to see Little Bo-Peep et al.












<span style="font-size: 14pt">This guy was really rocking the man-bag. I had to capture his fierceness!</span>

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

You know when that Vogue ad states that this particular designer's boutiques are located in London, Paris, Tokyo? Well, in Tokyo, it would probably be found on Omote-Sando street (or maybe in Ginza, but more on that later). VERY concentrated luxury. I've never been to NYC and strolled along 5th avenue, so I admit I was QUITE wide-eyed. And drooling. Oh to have money. You know once upon a very foolish time I believed that the difference between upmarket designers and Walmart was a label. Now I know better. Well made clothes fit SO WELL, no matter what size you are. Anyway, I did some window shopping, pausing particularly infront of Escada and Missoni. I never understood Karl Lagerfeld's vision, so I never did get into Chanel. And lets not mention the shoes. By and by, I looked at the time and saw the day was escaping, so I rushed off to Oriental Bazaar on Omote-Sando to buy some ceramics and Japanese prints. Great place for getting good quality souvenirs/gifts for the folks back home and for yourself.

At some point in there I experience Yumm moment #3: piping hot crepes with strawberries, custard and whipped cream, rolled up into a cornet and sold from a roadside stall. Best power snack ever.




Omote-Sando avenue










<span style="font-size: 14pt">Specialty chopstick store. Some of the higher-end ones went for over $100 USD. </span>




Before heading home, I wanted to take a look at the famous Shibuya crossing with its thousands of pedestrians and extreme density of electronic billboards. Very bright lights, and very big city. On the way, my camera's battery gave up the ghost, so I was finally forced to enjoy the experience without having to capture every second of it on film. Yeah, the crossing is madness, Shibuya station at rush hour was the like seventh circle of hell to me: hot, close and suffocating. I left the area to cool out, on the way snagging some freshly baked bearded papas (cream filled puff pastry) in strawberry, green tea, and banana flavours, which provided my Yumm Moment # 4. I then safely navigated my way back to Asaka just as night was falling.

[CeaBee]

Re: Japan and Bali

Thanks for sharing with us. Enjoying your report.

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Marielle</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lapassionata</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Marielle, thanks for stopping by! I've already completed my trip, got back a few days ago. I really wish I had done more exploration of Bali, but I spent the majority of time in Ubud, and came down with case of Bali belly during the last 2 days there. But there will be a next time, and I definitely want to do the North (Lovina et al) and Lombok! </div></div>

Oh, I'll be waiting for the trip report of Bali then!! Sorry to hear about the Bali belly!

Where did you stay in Ubud? </div></div>

I ended up staying in 2 places. The first was One World Retreats Kumara Sakti. Second was Furama Villas and Spa. I would recommend One World in a heartbeat. Such a beautiful property and EXCELLENT value for your money. Plus they do yoga retreats. At the rate I'm posting, I won't get to Bali pics till next year, so I think I'm going to have to do less editorializing, more posting.

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CeaBee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for sharing with us. Enjoying your report. </div></div>

Thank you for looking in CeaBee I get to relive the experience when I get to share it with other people.

[Ja. Jewel]

Re: Japan and Bali

I am SO enjoying your report.....pics are fabulous &amp; your writing style excellent!....looking forward to seeing Bali....hope you got to do some shopping there. It is ONE of the places I've always had visions of visiting. Thanks for sharing your trip with us!

[Marielle]

Re: Japan and Bali

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lapassionata</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I ended up staying in 2 places. The first was One World Retreats Kumara Sakti. Second was Furama Villas and Spa. I would recommend One World in a heartbeat. Such a beautiful property and EXCELLENT value for your money. Plus they do yoga retreats. At the rate I'm posting, I won't get to Bali pics till next year, so I think I'm going to have to do less editorializing, more posting. </div></div>

Thanks for the tip!

OMG, I just googled the One World Retreats Kumara Sakti Think I'm definately gonna have to do a runner!!
Just what I need!

http://www.kumarasakti.com/

[Peasie]

Re: Japan and Bali

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lapassionata</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After the spiritual, comes the superficial. I headed to Harajuku on foot.</div></div>

I love your writing and your perspective!
Can't wait for your Bali report!

[Gen]

Re: Japan and Bali

nice report passion

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

Hi all! Thanks for stopping by and reading and enjoying I am a slow poster because I am in the process of preparing for a big move, but I definitely want to finish this report!

Marielle, Kumara Sakti is worth it. All you need to know to be convinced is 75 min full body massages for 11USD. Decadent spice body rubs and flower bedecked baths overlooking rice paddy fields...I just had to keep telling myself not to feel guilty about feeling sooooo goooood.

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

Day 4: A rainy day in Tokyo, Ueno cultural park and Asakusa part 1

I got a late start this morning because for once I was feeling the 13 hour time difference, and maybe I had done a bit too much walking the previous day. The lovely weather from the weekend finally broke, giving way to overcast skies and intermittent showers. Then I discovered that my hosts had a small cabinet FULL of umbrellas, so obviously the were more used to the rain than the sunshine.

But a rainy day calls for museums and other similar indoor activities, so I decided to head for Ueno cultural park. I admit, I had not planned to take in any museums while in Japan simply because I had assumed that it wouldn't be much to my taste. I like vivid colours and bold lines, and I just didn't see that in the delicate caligraphy and soft-focused prints that were really all I knew about Japanese art. However, I was more than pleasantly surprised after my museum day, and in fact I became just a little obsessed with ukiyo-e (wood block prints) and japanese ceramics.

Ueno cultural park is apparently the best place to view the cherry blossoms in early April. It's also the location of the Ueno Zoo, the Tokyo National museum, the Tokyo metropolitan museum of art, the national science museum, the national museum of western art, and rather interestingly, the Tokugawa shogun cemetery. When I arrived at Ueno station there were LOADS of school kids everywhere, and my heart did kind of sink when I imagined tripping over the little rugrats while looking at thousand year old japanese porcelain, BUT thankfully they were on a school trip elsewhere.

The entrance fee to the Tokyo National museum was actually very reasonable, especially considering that there are four galleries containing over 80 000 objects to peruse. I bought a somewhat pricier ticket in order to see the Hosokawa Family collection. The Hosokawas are a very old samurai family who also played some sort of minor political roles during the Tokugawa shogunate. They left many varied and priceless objects (a few designated National Treasures) to the Eisei Bunko museum in Tokyo, a portion of which was now graciously allowed to be on display at Tokyo National.

I was blown away. I especially enjoyed getting to see authentic samurai armor and weaponry up close; it was SO beautiful. And a part of me acknowledged that THAT samurai sword designated an National Treasure was not merely decorative to the Hosokawa patriarch who held it at his side. It probably took off more than a few heads in its journey down the centuries; and now here it was, resting oh so benignly on a velvet cushion in a softly lit, airconditioned Tokyo gallery. Anyway, besides the weaponry there were ceramics, prints, paintings, textiles, historical documents etc. It was a well attended exhibit and definitely well worth the price.

After I left the special collection, I pretty much sprinted to the Honkan gallery which is one of the four main galleries of the Tokyo Nataional and had the Highlights of Japanese Arts exhibit. On the steps of the Honkan there were a number of people sketching, trying to capture the lines of the Gallery of Eastern Antiquities in the unreliable afternoon light. I just didn't have enough time to devote to the Honkan, and unfortunately I didn't get to see any of the other galleries before the museum closed for the evening. So Ueno cultural park is on the intenerary for my return visit.





<span style="font-size: 14pt">The Honkan Gallery</span>


<span style="font-size: 14pt">The gallery of Eastern Antiquities...I think</span>


<span style="font-size: 14pt">A lovely American couple was nice enough to take a pic</span>

[lapassionata]

Re: Japan and Bali

Once they kicked the last few stragglers out of the Honkan Gallery, I headed for Ueno station because I planned to visit Senso-ji (a buddhist temple) in Asakusa. I had an unfortunately unpleasant episode with a Tokyo Metro ticket collector, but a VERY handsome young Japanese gentleman came to my rescue with his careful but quite fluent English. We got it cleared up that I really wasn't trying to cheat Tokyo Metro.

So Asakusa is touristy. There is no way to get past that. It can be a little kitschy. There are a couple of markets running in narrow streets extending from Senso-ji that are full of foreigner-appropriate trinkets and gewgaws; you can find just about any kind of souvenir here, from painted fans to porcelain figurines. And you can get a glimpse or two of kimono clad ladies in the various alleyways, and peer into tiny tiny shops serving ramen and udon to exhausted salarymen. I love twisty little streets and hidden doorways, so Asakusa was a treat.

But this side of Asakusa I discovered later on. When I arrived at Sensoji that evening, most of the stalls in the Nakamise-dori market were shutting down for the night. Quite a few people WERE heading to the temple though, and the majority of them were not tourists. It was steadily drizzling, the kind of weather that drives most people indoors to cups of hot green tea; but the dedicated few were offering up their evening prayers before going home for night. I can't say I was awestruck or even moderately impressed by Sensoji; rather I liked the atmosphere, and the neighbourhood, and feeling of being pleasantly lost in a very foreign city at twilight.

I paid my respects, and went off looking for food. I found it off one of the shopping arcades. A really unpretentious restaurant with a picture menu outside, and a couple of smoking salarymen inside who were (I think) discussing the upcoming world cup. I ordered ramen with green onions, ginger and chicken, and a side order of gyoza. Yumm moment # 5. Someone briefly came out of the kitchen to take a peek at the foreigner slurping up her noodles, but I wasn't unduly bothered. The only question on my mind was , why the heck are Tokyo restuarants so stingy with the drinking water? This night I got back to M-chan's very late indeed.

<span style="font-size: 14pt">Saying goodbye to Ueno</span>




<span style="font-size: 14pt">On the way to Asakusa</span>




<span style="font-size: 14pt">Approaching Senso-ji temple via Nakamise-dori</span>




<span style="font-size: 14pt">Senso-ji's Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate)</span>