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Re: Japan and Bali
Then it was time to go
Then it was time to go
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Re: Japan and Bali
To try to give me a better onsen experience, my hosts took me to Yunessun , which is a huge indoor and outdoor amusement complex devoted to the onsen.
There are three zones: two swim-suit zones and one swimsuit free. If you didn't walk with your own swimsuit, you can rent one there. You are given an electronic bracelet to wear that opens your lockers, gives you entrance to the different zones, and records your purchases so you can pay at the end. It goes without saying that cameras are a no-no.
We started out in the swimsuit zone outside where there were different types of onsen tubs: wine bath, coffee bath
, curry, sake, green tea etc etc. Next we passed to the indoor baths (still in our swimsuits) to try out the Dead Sea bath, the swedish (sauna, then cold water, then hot water), and the doctor fish experience (they eat the dead skin on your feet.) Then we tried out the crazy water slides outside. 
And finally as the day was winding down, we went to the suit-free zone to take traditional baths. Even here in traditional onsen zone, there were outdoor as well as indoor tubs. And the water temperature in the different tubs went from mild to scalding.
M-chan and I were immensely charmed by a five year old boy trying out his english on us. The first question he asked me was "Are you feeling good?" Cho cute! 
In terms of hours of thought-free, uncomplicated fun, this day won HANDS DOWN. 
I was surprised Yunessun wasn't mentioned in the guidebook, but obviously it's mentioned somewhere because there were a good number of us foreigners there. The day had been soooo good, and so exhausting. I slept all the way back to Asaka.
It's the horse oil that will keep your skin looking so young...
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Re: Japan and Bali
<span style="font-style: italic">RENTED</span> swimsuit!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lapassionata</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There are three zones: two swim-suit zones and one swimsuit free. If you didn't walk with your own swimsuit,<span style="font-weight: bold"> you can rent one there. </span>
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Re: Japan and Bali
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Yuri_</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic">RENTED</span> swimsuit!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lapassionata</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There are three zones: two swim-suit zones and one swimsuit free. If you didn't walk with your own swimsuit,<span style="font-weight: bold"> you can rent one there. </span>
</div></div> </div></div>
I had to rent one Basically tank top and shorts...M-chan told me to close my eyes and don't think bout infections 
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Re: Japan and Bali
Day 9: Odaiba and Asakusa redux
M-chan and I slept in late this morning, so we had to rush to meet up with D-chan in Odaiba. Originally the plan was to take me to Tokyo Disney, but since I had essentially just spent the previous day at a waterpark, we nixed that idea and settled on the weird and wonderful little island in Tokyo Bay.
We met up at Venus Fort, which is an upmarket outlet megamall on Odaiba. LOOOOTS of Chinese tourists. Beijing rising indeed. Since it seems like the rest of the world can't get enough of the cheap (toxic) STUFF made in Chinese factories, there is now a new class of rich and ultra-rich Chinese who are taking off to see the world. And they are NOT afraid to spend big. So the prices in that mall, kinda reflected that reality. And signage, for example, would be in Japanese, english AND mandarin.
Anyway I wasn't interested in shopping anymore. My suitcase was full, and I my budget was blown. We went to lunch first and I had my first taste of shark-fin soup. YUMM!!! Absolutely delish. I ate it too fast to remember to take a picture.
We wandered around the mall afterward for a bit, but although I was tempted, I was firm: NO MORE BUYING (at least in Tokyo). D-chan mentioned that there was a ferry that could take us directly to Asakusa. Of course! 
A cruise across the Bay and up the Sumida river. The trip was not the MOST scenic, but it had its moments. The most amazing thing for me was to see so many people pouring off the ferry boat at our mainland transfer point. We asked: was there something special going on up in Asakusa? Why yes, someone replied, there's a festival. 
By sheer coincidence we were heading to Asakusa on the day of the Sanja Matsuri festival, where hundreds of traditionally clad men and women were parading portable shrines through the street and up to Senso-ji temple. What a lovely, amazing stroke of good luck to stumble on this extravaganza.
At first my sophisticated Tokyo-ite friends stood back a little, amused at my exuberance. But eventually, they got into it too, and we all ended up having a ton of fun. We ended the evening at a Korean restaurant with the most AMAZING food. I know it seems like I gush about everything I ate in Tokyo, but believe me, bad food is the exception, not the rule in that that city.
More of Odaiba futurism
The day was brilliant, but a bit chilly
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Re: Japan and Bali
The rented swimsuit gave me a pause also 
I am so loving this Report.. I have no desire to go to Japan but YOU LOOK GOOD OVER THERE..
Is that baby looking at you when you are taking the pictures under the Bridge or walkway (the red thingy)???
Since you stated we are few and far between over there, I am also looking at the faces of the people who I think are looking at you...
Thanks bunches for Japan.. I can hardly wait for Bali..Comment
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Re: Japan and Bali
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JAmerican Ooman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The rented swimsuit gave me a pause also
I am so loving this Report.. I have no desire to go to Japan but YOU LOOK GOOD OVER THERE..
Is that baby looking at you when you are taking the pictures under the Bridge or walkway (the red thingy)???
Since you stated we are few and far between over there, I am also looking at the faces of the people who I think are looking at you...
Thanks bunches for Japan.. I can hardly wait for Bali..
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Hi JAmerican Ooman
I'm so glad you are enjoying the report and thanks for the compliment. 
Japan wasn't initially on my top ten list either, but I sure am glad I went. I'm not going to lie, it seemed like I got some serious stares everywhere we went outside Tokyo. A few kids actually STARTLED when they saw me. 
I was like, don't you people have TV? Within Tokyo I got a lot of covert looks, a few people even went out of their way not to sit next to me on the train 
. But minor unpleasantness was more than made up for by the people who DID go out of their way to escort me to a destination, or help translate for me, or help turn me in the right direction.
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Re: Japan and Bali
Across Tokyo Bay on the Ferry...
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Re: Japan and Bali
Then up the Sumida River to Asakusa. . .
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Re: Japan and Bali
And finally into the thick of things. I am a little embarassed to say that it wasn't until I came home from my travels and Google'd it, that I got to understand what was going on at that festival. And I will now graciously share that Wikipedia knowledge with you.
Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrine festival) is a Shinto festival (one of the 3 biggest in Tokyo) that honours three men who were the founders of Senso-ji temple. Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo. There have been forms of this festival celebrated going back to the 8th century. The story goes that in 628 two brothers were fishing on the Sumida river, and caught in their net a statuette of the Bodhisattva Kannon. The third man, a wealthy landowner, heard of this miracle, and converted these two fishermen to Buddishm. These newly pious men then consecrated a small temple for this statuette which became the temple known today as Senso-ji. The statuette is supposed to still be there in its shrine. So during the third week in May, millions of people turn out into the streets of Asakusa to watch participants parade around with three shrines (mikoshi), all the while doing traditional singing and dancing. If it's so much fun to watch, I bet it's hella fun to participate.
Taking a break before doing some more dancing/singing/portaging
The Mikoshi
Heading up the Nakamise-dori to Sensoji
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Re: Japan and Bali
It would have been madness to continue up the Nakamise-dori with the crowds, so we dodged down a side street...to meet up with more music, dancing and merrymaking.
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Re: Japan and Bali
Good Korean Eats to end off a great day with friends....
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Re: Japan and Bali
Day 10: Tokyo to Kyoto
With the beginning of this week, I used my newly validated JR pass to hop the shinkansen to Kyoto. I had enjoyed Tokyo very much and the awesome hospitality of my hosts, but I was very ready to see a different side of Japan. I chose the Kansai region because of the high concentration of cultural and heritage sites there. Kyoto alone has 17 UNESCO designated World Heritage Sites, 13 of which are Buddhist Temples. Kyoto shows Japan's past as much as Tokyo showcase its futures. I Expedia’ed my way to (I thought at the time) a good deal on a four star hotel close to Kyoto’s downtown area and within walking distance of one of its famous Geiko districts (Pontocho). The hotel may have been four star, but my room was a box, a meticulously cleaned box, but nevertheless. And they charged me $1 a minute to call Hiroshima. Anyway, the room was just a place to clean-up and sleep, because the real vacation was outside in the city.
I called that day my bad-luck day because nothing seemed to go right. First I woke up late, because I had spent the dark hours of the morning arranging my Bali accomdation. Then, running out the door, I stepped on my sunglasses! Consequently, I missed the 7:33 am train, and had to wait until the 8:33 am train to get another reserved, non-smoking seat. I took the time in between to buy a teriyaki chicken bento box for breakfast, with unsweetened iced green tea. I was seated next to a young businessman who was reading some kind of report I think (it was in Kanji, but it was laminated and highlighted). I had another run of bad luck when I accidentally spilled some of my green tea on part of his report and his pants.
Sumimasen! Gomen nasai! Gomen nasai! I could see he was 
, I would be too. Thankfully, his report was saved by the laminated cover, and only a little part of his pants got wet. But I wanted to hide beneath my seat and not come out until Kyoto, of course. Mercifully, he got off at a stop 30 minutes later, so we wouldn't have to sit in annoyed silence the whole 2hrs 47min. I think he had a great story to tell at the office that morning.
Other than that incident, the journey down was lovely. Again Japan's mountainous terrain was on display, and for a few minutes, even Mount Fuji was clearly within view. NOT to state the obvious, but the bullet train is fast. It actually FEELS like its going fast. Does that make sense? On the shinkansen there is just this crazy sensation of being propelled forward very rapidly, the landscape outside not so much flowing past as being dragged along with us. At any point I expected us to be going Back to the Future. 
And to reiterate, the JR pass is pricey, but worth every penny. Just the one way journey from Kyoto to Tokyo on the shinkansen, costs 149CDN. 
I bought a one week pass for two times that amount. And the pass can be used on ANY JR line and on ANY JR transport throughout Japan. One other thing I discovered to my detriment that morning: JR trains are on time. If they are scheduled to leave at one minute past the hour they WILL leave at one minute past the hour, so you better be on platform at one minute BEFORE the hour, or yuh get leff.
We arrived in Kyoto just before 11:30 am, and since I wasn't due to check in at the Kyoto Royal Hotel and Spa until 3 pm, I got some planning stuff out of the way. Kyoto Station is an attraction in and of itself, all glass and steel futuristic, but I was only interested in the Kyoto Tourist Information Centre to be found there. At last, people who are actually HAPPY to assist the clueless foreigners. This is really should be one of the first stops for any visitor to Kyoto, because one can find information on all places of interest to a tourist, get directions, maps, free guides, reasonable internet etc. I already knew I wanted to do a guided tour of Kyoto and Nara, and I also wanted to go to some kind of Geiko event, but I also got directions to my hotel, info on transportation in the city and suggestions on the best places to see in my limited amount of time. I also discovered to my delight that I was a Geiko dance performance going on, and the theatre was less than a 10 minute walk from my hotel! I crossed the street to the Post Office to take some money from the international ATM there, and then headed around the corner to the Japan Tourism Bureau to book my guided English tour of Kyoto and Nara. Finally, consulting the guide I noticed that I was only 15 minutes away from the Higashi Honganji temple, so I set off walking.
I try to be a cheap traveller. If I can save money by walking, I will; but this was the day I should have just taken the bus. Contrary to weather channel predicitons, the day was gorgeous! Bright and sunny, temp in at least the high 20's. My little weekend bag and backpack seem to gain 10 pounds with every 10 metres I walked and with every step the sun was just burning out my soulcase. I had broken my glasses, but at least I had my baseball cap. I walked and sweated and cursed, and sweated and cursed some more. When I reached the temple I saw on the walls:
You damn right life is living me rightyah now! Life is wearing me the heck out with all its living!
But a few minutes in the dark and cool air of the temple's main hall helped me to chill out and regain my equilibrium.
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Re: Japan and Bali
I was planning to walk to the UNESCO-designated Nishi Hongan-ji temple which was another 20 minutes away on foot. But when I stepped out into the sun again, I gave up and headed for the nearest metro station. My hotel was only a few stops north on the line. I figured that even if my room wasn't ready I would sit in the lobby and drink ice water till I could check in. As it happened though, I got off at the wrong metro stop, and instead of paying more money to get back on, I stubbornly (cheaply?) decided to walk to my hotel. Simple enough, it was maybe 8 more blocks that-a-way-------->what could go wrong? Thirty minutes later, I was ready to sit down in the middle of the road and BAWL! I checked my map over and over, stared at the streets signs (they were in Kanji), walked back and forth, back and forth. How could I get lost? The map says my hotel is straight in that direction. Where the heck am I? 
I had to find some shade, put down my bags and physically ground myself before I had a spectacular melt down in the middle of this foreign city. I looked at the map again. Obviously the sun had baked out my brains. The street I was on dead ended in a North/South-running shopping avenue. I reasoned I would take that avenue north and it dump me out on another street close to my hotel. 
I mean, this shouldn't have been so difficult, after all unlike Tokyo, Kyoto is laid out in a grid pattern. Ten minutes later I was at my hotel. And Forty-five minutes after <span style="font-style: italic">that </span>I was on my way to Ponto-cho to see the geiko and maiko of the Kamagawo Odori do their traditional dances to honour the spring.
Poster for the Kamagawo-Odori performances
Ponto-cho Kaburen-jo Theatre
A lovely maiko (apprentice geiko) captivating her audience
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Re: Japan and Bali
No cameras or other recording devices allowed during the performance, of course. I splurged on a floor seat, and was three rows away from the stage. I was underdressed in my jeans, because the mostly Japanese patrons were far more formally attired. Just in front of me sat a geiko, a maiko and their Japanese client. He slouched in his seat, perused the program and said very little; at times the geiko was able to draw him out with a question, a comment or a joke. The maiko remained quiet and demure. I couldn't understand a word they were saying, but I sat back and observed the interaction. I could see the attraction.
And by the end of the performance on stage, I too had fallen somewhat under the spell of the geiko. None of the women on stage were really <span style="font-style: italic">beautiful</span>. Even through the mask-like white makeup I could see that their features were generally average to plain. Maybe that one had too heavy a chin, or the other one's eyes were too close together, and the one over there had too much of a snub nose. But the physical features are beside the point; it's all about the grace of their movements, the control, the mystery behind every look, their elaborately beautiful kimonos and intricately painted fans. These women were amazing performers, serious artistes. I think it's unfortunate that we in the West still erroneoulsy associate geisha with prostitution; these ladies are highly sought-after entertainers. I know I paid a pretty penny for my seat and was thoroughly satisfied.
After the performance I took a stroll down Ponto-cho, which is one of four formal geiko communities in Kyoto. Along the narrow street were the teahouses where they entertain, and the restuarants that serve elaborate kai-seki menus. I got stopped by an english speaking punter at one of these restaurants, who lured me in with promises of a reduced price menu (kai-seki is $$$), but when I got upstairs I wanted to enjoy the experience in full, so I ordered the multicourse meal.
He was very happy with me.
In true kai-seki the host brings course after course until the diner has had enough.
But I got five courses, and it was just right.
First course: amuse-bouche. One was a type of jelly (?wheat gluten in ginger sauce?), the other was (I think) a type of bean paste. Both yummy.
Second course: sashimi. seared fatty tuna and salmon. The tuna was amazing.
Third couse: 5 different kinds of tempura. Beef, salmon, organic chicken, squash with cinnamon, shrimp.
I had already eaten the squash tempura. Double Yumm.
Fourth course: Soba noodles with tempura. This was sooooo good, I almost asked for seconds.
Fifth course: dessert. I think a red bean paste cake and some other semi-sweet things. Meh.
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