Spain and Morocco

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

On the way to Morocco (woohoo!)

I left Granada Thursday morning and got a bus ticket direct to Algeciras where I planned to stay for the night and next day get a ferry to Morocco. The bus ride was over 4 hours long and by the time I got to Algeciras; I decided I was not staying. I got a ferry ticket at a nearby Western Union, cashed in some US dollars for Euros, totally forgetting that I should get Moroccan currency and quickly headed towards the ferry port. The ferry was leaving in approximately 20 minutes, so no time to spare and I headed off at a quick pace. The ferry ride was good, took over an hour and I got to watch some dolphins guiding the ferry along. There was a mix of people on the ferry and I saw an American. By the time we got to port in Morocco, I had no idea what to do and where to go but there was a bus and everyone was getting on including the American. I got on as well; looking at everyone tentatively and trying to gauge what’s next. The bus took us to customs, which was a breeze and finally I was outdoors again. Once again the feel of what to do, and where I am and where am I going was foreboding. I just want to get to Fes and that was all I knew.

I saw the American again and mustered up to ask where is he going and how would I get to Fes. He too was just like me, traveling alone with no set itinerary and decided to head to Morocco from Spain. I found it so hilarious and found a likable companion. It was good to finally have someone who speaks English and whom I could relate to at some level. For a short while we were traveling companions and there were the un-coded words that we would protect each other for the duration we were together.

Eventually he found out that a bus should be here shortly and which would take us to the train station. Well, shortly went into 3 hours and still no bus heading to the train station. I napped for a while, hugging my backpack and camera with my head resting on his shoulder. I was just too tired to even care that I could be huddled against a fugitive. Sometimes we find comfort in an unlikely stranger.

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

Took the ferry from Algeciras Spain bound for Tangier Morocco


The first person I met on the ferry!


I think that is the Rock of Gibraltar (which is a British territory)

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

Rabat the imperial capital city of Morocco


Garden walking around


More view of Rabat city streets - this section was quiet

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

couldn't quite figure out the safety pins in the lemons


the brown fortress like bldg is the medina


a lot of these old scooters were around Rabat streets

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

The medina in Rabat was mostly market areas, I saw too much westernized things in there...


lots of open display of dried fruits - dates, plums, prunes, raisins


what the women (and men too) are wearing is called a jalaba

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

The American and I finally decided to take a bus into Tangier city. Oh btw, we thought we were in Tangier but in fact were ported 40 miles outside of Tangier city. This was very confusing as the travel books gave the impression that all ferries port right into Tangier city and once off the ferry you just mosey around town and find a hotel. The bus we took to Tangier city took 2 hrs to get there. I was beyond tired. Finally in Tangier! It was probably close to 8PM Morocco time (2 hrs behind Malaga Spain) and the city was alive with noise. Just as expected we were pounced on by taxi operators and various “operators” attempting to guide us to hotels, taxis, food, etc. This is where you have to get street-smart and being from Kingston Jamaica, I am used to vendors of various sorts trying to pull you in one direction and the next. We settled for a taxi which took us to the train station for only 3 Euros. This same taxi operator was trying to sell us a fare to Fes for 130 Euros. The American and I had to laugh as we declined his pricey offer. The train was scheduled to depart at 9:35PM promptly. Thankfully, there was an automated cambio at the train station. How cool was that, I could slip in Euros or dollars and get back Dirham at the bank’s rate.

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

Fes or so I thought…

I was now on my way to Fes and somehow lost my American partner Jared. I only knew he bought ticket to Marrakech. I was okay with a quick bite at the station, an excellent wifi hook up to check emails and catch up with the family, and a miniature cup of coffee with croissant. I honestly could not tell if I was sitting in first class but the seats were filthy, and every Maroc man stared me down. I kept my “game face on”, which meant don’t mess with this woman. The train ride to be over 5 hours and being tired I was in and out of sleep and ended up missing the transfer stop to Fes. No one had told me I had to transfer to get to Fes. I was lost, tired, alone, could barely speak French, and Arabic was completely foreign to my ear. Above all else, I wanted to be home. What could have been a disaster turned out to be good after 3 more hours I changed my travel plans for Fes and went to Rabat, the imperial city of Morocco. It was after 3AM Friday I got off the train, tired, sore and a kind elderly gentleman walked with me until I found the Hotel Balima, where I stayed for 3 nights.

So far, I do not like Morocco but that may change in the next few days…

Rabat, Morocco

Friday afternoon I set out to see what Rabat looks like in the daylight and found it to be a big busy noisy bustling city with a high pollution. Despite all that I enjoyed myself walking through the medina and being a part of a mix of culture ranging from Africans, Arabs and Berbers. The women dressed very modern and highly fashionable. I was expecting to see a rash of burqua but that was not so as most women did not wear a headscarf and the ones I saw were fashionably dressed. Moroccan women are very beautiful with their mix of African, Spaniard, Berber and Arab.

The market was an interesting area to walk through and at one point; I helped an older woman as she struggled with a hefty box. It was an interesting afternoon of sightseeing, picture taking and mixing in with the crowd. I was not harassed and I easily blended in well. I really could not find much about Rabat but I stayed here for a few more days to unwind and relax as I was in no rush. My plan for Monday morning was to get on the train for Fes.

[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

Fes – Finally!

Monday morning, I made my way to the train station as I have to get to Fes.

Right now I am sitting on the train heading to Fes. The earlier view from the train was that of back city walls but now I am looking at landscape that is hilly and filled with olive trees and desert palms. I hope Fes lives up to its old world charm and will afford a culturally and ethnically rich experience that is rewarding and relaxing. In the train compartment are a French couple, an elderly Moroccan couple, two other Moroccan women and myself…

<span style="font-style: italic">Life’s paths can be so creative and many times it takes you into the unknown. First let me begin from where I left off “on the train”…</span>

After some time two fine looking men decided to join the coach. I really could not take my eyes off these two men; great looks, good body, warm voices, and wonderful smiles. They were speaking in fluent Arabic and were apologetic to the elderly gentleman who felt the car already had enough warm bodies and two grown men crunched in amongst us would be too much. However the train was full and we had space for two more and I was quietly pleased they insisted on joining. Once they were seated that was when the conversation with first comment on the book I was reading “Rough Guide to Morocco”. It was good to be speaking with someone in English as I have been struggling with my mediocre French and dead in the waters with Arabic. Introductions passed around and I found out their names were Zak and Rachid.

[Peasie]

Re: Road to Morocco!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SandiF</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic">Life’s paths can be so creative and many times it takes you into the unknown. First let me begin from where I left off “on the train”…</span>
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[SandiF]

Re: Road to Morocco!

The trip took a different turn starting with my journey to Fes...

Post more later.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Peasie</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SandiF</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-style: italic">Life’s paths can be so creative and many times it takes you into the unknown. First let me begin from where I left off “on the train”…</span>
</div></div>

</div></div>

[Stormmey]

Re: Road to Morocco!

Sandif your report is captivating....love the Architecture.....I will not exhale until you post more, so please doan mek mi stifle!!

[ILP]

Re: Road to Morocco!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SandiF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think that is the Rock of Gibraltar (which is a British territory)
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Lawd...my picture of the rock isnt this good...

SandiF...you a bring back memories for true

[ILP]

Re: Spain and Morocco

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SandiF</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Alhambra
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when i visited it mussi di 125+ degrees... when mi seh no relief... but again...the memories.

[SandiF]

Re: Spain and Morocco

I glad to hear that you are enjoying my trip so far! The Alhambra itself is an architectural wonder. I have more to post

ILP I wanted to get to Gibraltar for a &quot;just to see&quot; moment but did not made it. This is a trip I will do again but may skip the Spain -- there was so much in Morocco... ahhhh... read on...

[SandiF]

Re: Spain and Morocco

continuing...

They shared much information about Fes giving recommendation on where to stay, preference in a dar or riad of the old town medina. I was a bit apprehensive but decided to trust my instinct. I was particularly drawn towards one and as always I am usually charmed by handsome charismatic men. They highly recommended a Dar of which to stay; which is an old palace converted into a family home also serving as a guest house to visitors. Once off the train, I went with Rachid; and Zak agreed to come by the dar to take me out for a sightseeing tour. Rachid got me a taxi and left the cabbie with instructions on where to drop me off at the medina. My hostess was already at the gates of the medina, the wonderful Fatima who took me under her wings and into her home for the next few days.

Later in the day Zak took me to Sefrou in the middle Atlas (roughly 25km south of Fes). Sefrou sits on the foothills of the Middle Atlas and home to Berber Jews. The medina was very low key and devoid of tourist which made it more interesting. Navigating the market was an experience of itself and I felt engulfed in a culture which had not changed much in how they create their crafts through archaic wood, and iron work. After which we took the hills of the Middle Atlas to the ‘Cascades’ where springs and waterfalls drop below into imposing rocky outcrop.

Zak, a very interesting individual gave a valuable history lesson about the Berber Jews, pointing out differences in the Berber ethnic group. There was an obvious chemistry which neither of us could ignore, however we kept the time together light and well mannered. By all means we had just met hours ago but there are times you have to trust the individual you are with and most of all trust your own self. To say the least, I found the hospitality engaging, enduring and a breath of fresh air. Back at the Dar, I had a traditional Moroccan meal of meatballs, lentil soup, olive bread, dates, a pastry and finishing it off with Pomegranates. What a great way to end a wonderful day which had started with trepidation as I ventured into the unknown. Zak and Rachid (whom I am to meet the next day) had turned the day into one that has been filled with meeting good people and gaining a wealth of knowledge.