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Mi si som tings dat bothers mi, but before mi comment. How old is dis car, an di mileage?
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Old 1998.
What bothers you...do you think this guy is doing things he doesn't need to and taking me to the cleaners?
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Maybi. Why did you take it to him in the first place? Just for the emissions test? How was it running and idling at stop lights?Last edited by j-kid; 07-09-2013, 08:17 PM.Comment
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I went for the emissions test but I said I don't want to pay for the test twice so check it and let me know what looks like it may be a problem for the test and we'll fix it before. Then he said there were all kinds of safety issues.
I have had no trouble with idling and no problems at stop lights but the car has been VERY noisy. Now I know why...
Big hole in the muffler.
Also I had brakes done completely last year but when I come up the hill from my garage and step on the brakes to stop at the street sometimes the brake light comes on. He said brakes are fine.
He showed me some parts that looked bad...muffler for example but there is no guarantee that it isn't an old muffler he keeps round de back and shows everyone.
I think I need to find a guy to go to the garage with me.
The number of things he found wrong with the car it is a wonder it was running at all.
Last edited by Tropicana; 07-09-2013, 08:46 PM.Comment
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He also said the following needed attention but didn't fix them:
Velvetrain making noise when cold
Combination switch intermittently failing/acting up.
Smal Exhaust lake between exhaust mainfold and front downpipe.
Power steering fluid dirty, minor leak at power steering pump.
Battery has low state of health, monitor at next oil changeComment
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You did not answer my question about the amount of miles on the car?
Anyhow, here is part of what is bothering me:
Usually a repair shop, don't talk themselves out of money, unless they are reputable.
So when the first shop said that "your car was in great shape and I just need to replace the struts at some point (whatever the heck they are)", I tend to more believe him.
- Replace Engine Air filter - Depending on when you last had it changed, they last a very long time if you not in dusty areas.
- Replace Valve Cover Gasket - Did you notice any oil leaks in your driveway or around your engine. This would be the only reason to replace it, but not critical.
- Replace Spark Plugs and spark plug wires - When was the last time you had them replaced? For example: Platinum plugs which they have been putting in cars for about the last decade, last 100K miles. If the wires an plugs were bad, your car would be running and idling nasty (you may even get engine miss-fires).
- Replace Throttle position Sensor - Were you getting any hesitation, stalling, bucking from the engine while you drive?
- Service Throttle body clean shuttle plate - Basically, he use some carburetor cleaner to wash the grease/grime off of the butterfly plate.
- Replace Serpentine Tensioner - Were you hearing any screeches or chirps while you idle or drive? Did you ever have problems with your engine drive belt jumping off the pulleys?
- Replace Muffler - This one is legit. He could have patched it though, but usually they replace it.
- Replace Front Wheel Bearing - This one if iffy. It could have been loose and just need tighten up. Did you hear any roaring like an airplane taking off when you move off or are driving?
- Replace Stabilizer Link - This is iffy also. Unless the long bolt snaps, you usually don’t touch them. The bushing could have been worn, in which case you only replace the rubber bushings. But my question is; Why only one side and not the other?
- Oil and filter change - Comped - When last you had an oil change (approximately how many miles ago)? Exactly wha you mean by comped?
- Wiper Blades Replaced - Comped - Were you having problems seeing out the front glass when it rains?
By the way, your struts are just your suspension shocks and springs all-in-one. That is how they have been designing them for years now, the use to be separate.
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- Valve-train making noise when cold - This statement is nebulous. By the way when last you check your transmission fluid? You can actually do it yourself. There is one other thing, but you did not say anything about your transmission having any shifting issues.
- Combination switch intermittently failing/acting up. - Again, This statement is nebulous. There are many combination switches in the vehicle. Which one is it? Is he talking about the wiper switch?
- Small Exhaust lake between exhaust manifold and front downpipe. - Don’t they check for this during emission testing? How come he left it when he fixed the muffler?
- Power steering fluid dirty, minor leak at power steering pump. With a car of its maturity, I would not expect the fluid to be very clear. Is the pump noisy when you turn, or is the wheel hard to turn? If not, don't worry about that. It is more trouble to flush than it is worth.
- Battery has low state of health, monitor at next oil change - Are you doing mostly city, or highway driving? Does the cr sit for long periods of time? If it is low, why did he not put it on the charger while he worked on the car for all that time and money? Are you having any starting/cranking problems when you turn the key?
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I tink yuh need fi move dis ova to di "TECH Forum" now?Comment
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Tropi, it sounds as if you had a "check engine" light on at the dash. This is an engine code that downloads in the computer(ECM in your car). This code is easily removed if a person simply disconnects the battery cable from the engine.Originally posted by Tropicana View PostRichD I don't understand this have fe drive fi 100 KM to re-set everything business. Where the heck would that take me to from Toronto?
Doing this will reset the computer and wipe out all trouble codes and the check engine light will go out.
This prevents people at the emmisions station to find fault(trouble code) with your vehicle. BUT THIS IS ONLY TEMPORARY!
Sometimes it's enough to get the vehicle through emmisions, but after a short period of time the check engine light will re-appear. That is why there is a time period and/or you must put a certain amount of miles on vehicle before retest. The emission's people have caught up with the little tricks that people do to get through emissions with out properly fixing their car.
When emissions people hook their test device to your vehicle, they know if your vehicle has had any interruption in power(such as battery disconnect) to your vehicle.
100 KM sounds like a lot. Is there a time period also? Check on this...Comment
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Oh my gosh!!
It will take me a while to digest all a diss.
I don't recall anything except there being a really loud noise from the front of the car when it was running sometimes. I don't recall seeing any leaks at all or fluid on the driveway where I used to live or in my parking spot in the underground parking.
Are you both mechanics? You seem to know a lot about cars.
No my check engine light wasn't on.
Yes Lonewolf he said distance and time must pass before I can test it. So I am to drive it for 100K and bring it back Friday to be tested. With all the flooding around the GTA and the threat of more rain today. Mi not sure where mi can drive i'.
The temporary sticker expires on Friday at midnight so I do need to get back in there to apply for the permanent one.:
This part:
He is talking about the turn single. Sometimes when I try to put on the left turn signal it starts clicking really fast and it doesn't go on. I have to try to put it on again. He said he tightened the bulb but if this is still happening, it could be that the combination switch needs to be replaced eventually.- Combination switch intermittently failing/acting up. - Again, This statement is nebulous. There are many combination switches in the vehicle. Which one is it? Is he talking about the wiper switch?
I don't even know what a combination switch is.
Last edited by Tropicana; 07-10-2013, 09:10 AM.Comment
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Tropi, let me try to simplify for you. There are only three things that YOU LISTED that will cause emissions test failure.Are you both mechanics? You seem to know a lot about cars.
No my check engine light wasn't on.
1) Throttle position sensor.(sends signal to ecm for fuel distribution)
2) Anything muffler(exhaust, cat,oxygen sensor etc.)related. (if test is from tail pipe, hole in muffler)Will cause faulting reading.
3) Spark plugs and wires (if bad will cause incomplete combustion)
PS Back yard mechanic and I just repaired a 1996 Toyota Tacoma that failed emissions testing. It needed two oxygen sensors (one up stream and one down stream) and it also had an cracked exhaust manifold. Replaced all items. I had to wait two weeks before vehicle could be brought back for testing.
BUT! It set a check engine light code. (before repair)
YOUR LIGHT ON YOUR DASH, BECAUSE OF AGE OF VEHICLE COULD BE BURNED OUT. HENCE, NO CODE SHOW. DOES IT OR DID IT COME ON AS ROUTINE WHEN YOU TURNED IGNITION ON BEFORE REPAIR?
Do you remember as much?Last edited by lonewolf; 07-10-2013, 09:48 AM.Comment
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No the engine light has not been coming on at all. I haven't checked to see if there is a burnt out bulb. The last emissions test was 2 years ago.
He said that the reason he insisted on fixing the other things was that they were "safety" related and he wasn't prepared to let any car leave his shop without fixing items like that. He said my car had been basically falling apart and his first thought had been "is this even salvageable". Freaked me out a bit.Last edited by Tropicana; 07-10-2013, 09:57 AM.Comment
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Isn't that the point (to freak you out to spend money)? How nice of him, to want to not let you leave his shop before you spend a lot of unessary money.
Safety related such as what? For example, You haven't mentioned he said anything about stop lamps, brakes, or drivability issues.
The main reason for you to drive the car for a period of time is so that you can flush the exaust system and stabalize the readings. If you don't there will still be leftover residue (some of the incorrect mixture, and/or contiminants) from before the system was calibrated.
I am curious, how did you get through the emission test last year without all this expense, is this the same person that you had test it?
Originally posted by Tropicana View PostLast edited by j-kid; 07-10-2013, 12:03 PM.Comment
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Originally posted by RichD View Postthe emission test is every 2 years but it really sound like this guy carry her down the garden pathOriginally posted by j-kid View PostIsn't that the point (to freak you out to spend money)? How nice of him, to want to not let you leave his shop before you spend a lot of unessary money. Safety related such as what? For example, You haven't mentioned he said anything about stop lamps, brakes, or drivability issues.
The main reason for you to drive the car for a period of time is so that you can flush the exaust system and stabalize the readings. If you don't there will still be leftover residue (some of the incorrect mixture, and/or contiminants) from before the system was calibrated.
I am curious, how did you get through the emission test last year without all this expense, is this the same person that you had test it?When its hot in the jungle of peace I go swimming in the ocean of love.....Comment
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By the way Tropi, being a Mechanic by trade does not necessarily means that you are good at it. There are many non-"Mechanics
" that can run rings around some so-called-mechanics. If you are good with your hands, knowledgable, an anayticial person, an have experience working on cars you can hold your own. Experiencewise, you could say I am a little above the level of most people, having worked in the field.
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J-Kid i have 2 box of tinnels patty for you ..when yuh come fah dem yuh can jus change out my brakes for me.
When its hot in the jungle of peace I go swimming in the ocean of love.....Comment
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